Fresh Takes

Chef Matthew Anderson didn't want to just throw away the stack of leftover mushroom stems, so he ground them up. Then he had another problem: "I was like, What do I do with a pile of mushroom dust?" The answer: Combine it with salt to create a sweet and salty crust for the seared Atlantic salmon that's become a highlight of Umami Asian Kitchen's menu. "The dish has stark, contrasting lines, in both flavors and textures ... from the nuttiness of the black rice and pink fattiness of the fish, to the soft-cooked green spinach and bok choy," he says. It's one of the ways Anderson reinvented Umami more than a year ago. He also removed all cream-based sauces in favor of simple stir-fries, broths and unusual combinations such as goat cheese dumplings with soy sauce. 42 North Main St., Chagrin Falls, 440-247-8600,

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