25 Best Restaurants: Pier W (1)

Even in its early days as a pirate ship jutting over Lake Erie, the 51-year-old Pier W has been anchored in consistency, whether it’s the extravagant Sunday brunch, the patio’s jaw-dropping view of boats sailing at sunset or that decadent lightly creamy lobster bisque. Now, executive chef Regan Reik wants to make sustainability a part of that legacy. He’s on a voyage to serve 100 percent sustainable seafood. “There are people out there doing things the right way,” he says. “I want to buy from a dozen people and purchase from them what they do best.” This means traveling to the mouth of Alaska’s Copper River to meet the fisherman who catches and processes wild salmon. Sent directly to Pier W, the fish is only handled seven times before hitting your plate —  significantly less than the average of 120 touches at many restaurants. That expert care is extended to the cooking process too. For the Alaskan wild halibut, Reik uses a tagine, or a Moroccan cooking and serving vessel, to poach the fish in a broth made of its bones. “I’d like to be able to feel good about what I do,” he says, “not only in terms of flavor, but in terms of what types of seafood I’m putting on the plate.” Don’t miss: Reik has added more vegan and vegetarian options, such as the coconut milk-braised turnips served with sticky rice and grilled romaine ($18).Deal Shark: Sail over for the weekdays happy hour 4-7 p.m. for a tempura blue cod sandwich ($7.25), clam chowder ($4.25) or Prince Edward Island mussels ($6.25). Winton Place, 12700 Lake Ave., Lakewood, 216-228-2250, pierw.com