70 dishes that remind you of home (1)

MEATLOAF

BBQ Meatloaf
The Harp, $11.99
Some people argue meatloaf is boring. We think of each version like a snowflake — basic ingredients that all end up a little bit different on their journey from the mixing bowl to your plate. And since The Harp has kept our bellies pleasantly full of Irish boxty and fish and chips over the years, it was time to try its cooked-with-love spin on BBQ meatloaf. We were delighted to find a hulking slab swabbed with a mellow, spicy sauce over a bed of rightfully lumpy homemade mashed potatoes. But here's what'll bring a tear to mom's eye: The loaf crumbles apart with the tap of a fork, and there's not a dry bit to be found. Oh yeah, in case your sides weren't already splitting, batter-dipped onion rings and a chef's choice vegetable round out the dish. 4408 Detroit Ave., Cleveland; (216) 939-0200, www.the-harp.com
COMFORT LEVEL
By the time you're finished, that morning spent digging your car out of a snowdrift will be a distant thought.

Turkey Meatloaf
Dish Deli, $5
Biting into the turkey meatloaf at Dish Deli in Tremont is like a rookie Scotch drinker taking his first sip of a single-malt selection. There are so many flavors — all great — that by the time you're done savoring and ready to start identifying the tastes, you're finished. There's no gravy and no ketchup along with this meal, and you wouldn't want to hide the flavors with them either. You won't even want to bring the mashed potatoes along for the ride. The vegetables — carrots, celery and, um, we'll need a second helping to tell you more — mixed into the meat are unbelievably fresh. Plus, it's made of turkey, so it's got to count as healthy, right? 1112 Kenilworth Ave., Tremont, (216) 523-7000
COMFORT LEVEL
Perfect lunch to take a diet hiatus and not feel awful about later.

Meatloaf with Wild Mushrooms
ML the Restaurant, $19.90
Ask chef Michael Longo what that extra flavor is in the meatloaf. Sure, we know it's made of Kobe beef and veal. But beyond that rich flavor, there's something else. He wouldn't tell us, and he thought we were just casual customers. He just smiled. He's asked a lot, the bartender says. The extra kick takes it from something you can make to something worth paying for. If it isn't a special occasion, sit at the bar. It's regularly populated by regulars where everyone knows each other's name — like "Cheers," but with two parts Frasier, one part Norm. 16725 Chillicothe Road, Chagrin Falls, (440) 543-6567
COMFORT LEVEL
It'll warm you up on a brisk day before heading out on a hike.

Meatloaf Sandwich
Lucky's Café, $7.50
A sandwich is just two pieces of bread with something between them. A "sammich" — as it's conceived here — is carefully constructed and infused with love (and we all know that tastes much better). So when you've finished the day's to-dos, head over to Lucky's Café and order up the meatloaf sandwich any way you'd like — we had our piping-hot portion of the homespun classic with onions, peppers and subtle spices. It's served on baked-in-house Como, rustic Italian bread that crisps up on the press, and comes with chips, a pickle and your choice of condiments. We went with a classic, kid-friendly slice of Cheddar to top it all off. 777 Starkweather, Cleveland, (216) 622-7773, www.luckyscafe.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Walking barefoot through grass that someone else cut

Comfort Zone
Pickwick and Frolic
Pickwick and Frolic didn't invent anything on its menu. It didn't even re-invent anything. No, says owner Nick Kostis, "We just wanted to create something memorable."

So Kostis spent four years — two of those crisscrossing the county — developing the restaurant's rustic American concept and menu: porridges (soup), rotisserie chicken, meatloaf, lasagna, pork chops, filet.

He calls it "our narrative" — like curling up next to a fire with a good book. Here, the characters are authentic (just like the food): Charles Dickens, Short Vincent Street, the stone hearth oven, a rotisserie spit that uses cherry, mesquite and apple woods, and our roots as an old American city that hosted the masses who migrated to this country.

The food here tastes like prosperity, an abundance forged in the mills and in the neighborhoods.

ANGUS & CHORIZO MEATLOAF SANDWICH, $9.95
A meatloaf sandwich was a Star Wars lunchbox delicacy — cold ground chuck, squishy white bread and yellow mustard. It was out of place next to everyone else's baloney, but kids would offer just about anything as a trade. Well, we're not swapping anything for Pickwick & Frolic's inch-thick version. It's tender and moist with the chorizo lending an earthy, spicy, Latin influence.

PICKWICK'S POTTED POULTRY, $9.95
Pot pie used to mean it came from the grocery's frozen food section. It also meant peeling off the crust to get at the cubed chicken (we think) and veggies. This will erase that memory and have you devouring the flaky crust, hand-pulled rotisserie chicken and real vegetables in a creamy sauce.

PICKWICK SIGNATURE S'MORE, $4.95
This •round-the-campfire favorite is served right out of the oven as a graham cracker, chocolate and marshmallow soufflé. Garnished with fresh berries, the best part of this gooey dessert is the melty chocolate center, baked inside a graham cracker crust and topped with toasted •mallow cream. This s'more is more fun shared.

2035 E. Fourth St., Cleveland, (216) 241-7425, www.pickwickandfrolic.com  

POTATOES

Lobster Tots
Boulevard Blue, $6
In grade school cafeterias, it was always cause for celebration when tater tots appeared on the line. Compared to the inauspicious mystery meats and questionable Jell-O, tater tots represented truth, justice and the American Way — or, at least, a way to eat "vegetables" in a thoroughly enjoyable fashion. Boulevard Blue has taken our fondness for the childhood favorite to a new level with its lobster tater tots. About 10 appear still steaming on a platter, looking like fresh, mini beignets. Bite into one, and you'll sink deeper into your chair with happiness. The smooth potato mix, reminiscent of a Southern hush puppy in texture, is sprinkled liberally with buttery morsels of fresh lobster. The pleasing inside is surrounded, in the manner of the best of tots, with a perfectly crispy exterior. Slather on some of the accompanying avocado crème fraiche, and just like when you were a kid, you might not feel like sharing.
12718 Larchmere Blvd., Cleveland, (216) 721-5500, www.boulevardblue.com  
COMFORT LEVEL
Makes you feel family-reunion-in-Maine happy.

Lobster Mashed Potatoes
Blue Point Grille, $8
Lobster is a red-convertible, cool-crowd kind of food. Like your first crush, the thought of it makes you feel giddy (even if you only got that one kiss). Mashed potatoes are reliable, strong and always there when you're sad. This dish is like the unexpected, but brilliant, marriage between the dreamer and the realist — the fluffy, buttery pile of potatoes supports the meaty chunks of rich lobster. It's the same as movie night on the couch — with candles and a bottle of wine for two. 700 W. St. Clair, Cleveland, (216) 875-7827, www.hospitalityrestaurants.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Holding hands during a moonlit stroll

Blue Cheese Tater Tots
Ballantine, $24 (part of rib eye steak entrée)
It's not really fair to call these tater tots. The potato is sliced into thin, hash-brownlike strips. When you take a bite, you'll encounter the sweetness of the potato and the familiar hints of bacon, but you may not notice the blue cheese until you swallow. They take a lot of preparation, so they are only served aside steak (sorry, no separate orders). But Ballantine seemingly did the impossible: We salivate more thinking about the potatoes than the accompanying meat. 4113 Erie St., Willoughby, (440) 942-5151, www.theballantine.net  
COMFORT LEVEL
Will take your mind off all those leaves you still have to rake.

White Cheddar Mashed Potatoes
Cleveland Chop House, $3.95
You'll forget about rush hour once you step off of St. Clair and into the 1940s-inspired Cleveland Chop House. The dimmed lights and sounds of Big Band music quiet the hustle of downtown. Settle into one of the comfortable, oversized booths and relive a time when meals weren't rushed and mashed potatoes weren't instant. One bite of the heaping mound of white cheddar mashed potatoes whipped with cheese and sprinkled with parsley and you'll feel sorry for whoever spent all day peeling potatoes, but you'll also be grateful they did. 824 W. St. Clair Ave., Cleveland, (216) 623-0909, www.chophouse.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Crooning along to Billie Holiday on your iPod

Back 40 Curly Fries
Mike's Place, $6.29
Bar food, ahh, we remember it well. Those college days when eating a dozen chicken wings at midnight seemed normal. Cheese, potatoes and bacon were all building blocks in our junk-food pyramid, and Mike's Place in Kent has an interesting take on the trio. Start with a pile of fries. No, make that seasoned curly fries. Then, add cheese. Make that, cheeses — gobs of ooey-gooey Cheddar sauce and a handful of shredded mozzarella. Top with bacon — not crumbles, but entire strips — and add a dollop of sour cream for good measure. Mike's Place then throws it all in a large, deep-fried tortilla shell, just to show they care. 1700 S. Water St., Kent, (330) 673-6501, www.mikesplacerestaurant.com
COMFORT LEVEL
If you bomb a midterm, the fries are worth the 2-mile trudge from campus.

SUNDAY NIGHT DINNER

Stuffed Pork Chop
Thyme, the Restaurant, $21
The menu description of the pork chops at Thyme in Medina make them sound like nothing a finicky dad or little brother would touch: celery, fennel and smoked rambol cheese stuffing, served with grilled asparagus, hush puppies and apple pork jus. Just tell them it'll be fine. It's worth it. Biting into the thick pork chop (cooked to your specifications), you're greeted with a sweet taste that must come from the jus. Soon the flavor blends with a contrasting salty surge. The stuffing is not dominating. The pork itself is tender, and tastes exactly like what your finicky eating partners will expect. 716 N. Court St., Medina, (330) 764-4114, www.thymetherestaurant.com
Comfort Level
An orange-and-brown stocking cap with a Browns helmet logo on the front and tassel on the top

Creekside Pot Roast
Eddie's Creekside, $8.95
The building blocks of your mom's pot roast are all here, just rearranged. The traditional hunks of spud are reinterpreted as a potato pancake. The roast, once the star of the show, is now thin strips of meat hidden beneath a hearty helping of thick pan gravy (no watery, weak-sister stuff here) and onion strings. It's listed under "sandwich" on the menu, but there's not a slice of bread to be found. It would only get in the way of this deliciously constructed family classic. The bonus is you also get to choose from a comfort-laden selection of sides too. Aunt Sharon's Baked Beans sounded like a spoonful of family reunion to us. We were happy to discover Aunt Sharon's secret ingredient must be barbecue sauce. 8803 Brecksville Road, Brecksville, (440) 546-0555, www.eddiescreekside.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Licking the cake batter off the beaters of mom's electric mixer

Open-faced Hot Roast Turkey Sandwich
The Diner on Clifton, $7.25
This diner speciality certainly looks the part — overly generous portions of roasted turkey breast and real mashed potatoes swimming in steaming hot gravy goodness. But instead of the boring piece of Wonder Bread, this open-faced sandwich is anchored by an oversized slice of buttery, grilled sourdough and served with the veggie of the day. The diner feels much the same way — familiar with its black patent leather stools at the front counter and resident raspy-voiced waitress who knows all the regulars by name — making it a popular lunch spot for everyone from art students to executives. 11637 Clifton Blvd., Cleveland, (216) 521-5003
COMFORT LEVEL
A midday pick-me-up for the chilly Monday blues

Lobster Cassoulet
Pier W, $41
Whenever anything would simmer on the stove for hours, we knew we were in for a treat. Pier W's lobster cassoulet proves this with an American twist on a traditional French country meal. Slow cooked in earthenware, this casserole-like dish arrives with a whole lobster's worth of buttery, tender meat atop creamy cannellini beans. The light, delicate flavor of the seafood perfectly complements the heartiness of the beans. So scoop some onto your plate — we know you've been patient. Winton Place, 12700 Lake Ave., Lakewood, (216) 228-2250, www.selectrestaurants.com/pier/index.html
COMFORT LEVEL
Sitting in front of a fireplace with a good book

Mary Yoder's Sampler Platter
Mary Yoder's Amish Kitchen, $12.39
A trip to Middlefield takes you through open spaces and long, stretching roads, providing a chance to relax and unwind. And, trust us, you'll want to pace yourself as you scoop up this trio of homemade favorites. The baked chicken thigh, shredded roast beef in gravy and thick slice of ham (with a dab of pineapple sauce) send you straight back to long wintertime dinners with family. Be sure to mosey through the mound of real mashed potatoes, complete with pool of brown gravy in the center, and the scoop of thick, cheesy macaroni. Bonus: you can order the dishes family style for the full dining-with-Grandpa-Frank experience. 14743 N. State St., (440) 632-1939, Middlefield, www.maryyodersamishkitchen.com
COMFORT LEVEL
This one will slow you down too. Curl up and take a nap.

Pork Chops Stuffed with Olives and Mushrooms
The Grill at Bainbridge Commons, $15.95
Like a cashmere sweater, this stuffed pork chop is soft and light, but warm and inviting. And why not, owner Marc Jacobson has been making it for years at home. His version is filled with kalamata olives and a stuffing made from crimini, shitake and oyster mushrooms. Earthy with bright bursts like an autumn canopy, it's served with a side of Cheddar-mashed potatoes. 17800 Chillicothe Road, Chagrin Falls, (440) 543-0670, www.thegrillatbainbridgecommons.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Knowing you'll be using a leaf blower rather than a rake this year

Meat and Potatoes Tasting
Light Bistro, $65
The first course doesn't exactly scream "comfort food." We've never seen sliced circles of boar and fingerling potatoes fanned across a plate atop warm fruit compote and garnished with a strand of green onion. As the courses come marching out, and the plate proffering a wild mushroom vichyssoise (cream soup) surrounding a hunk of crispy pork belly is replaced with chef Matt Mathlage's version of a cheeseburger in paradise (chopped sirloin wrapped in a rib eye bun with an accompanying tomato terrine, hunk of bleu cheese and truffled french fries). The tribute to our childhood staple emerges: He's playing with the idea of the classic American dinner, while keeping the flavors simple and familiar. You'll recognize the elements, but the whole is delightfully surprising. 2801 Bridge Ave., Cleveland, (216) 771-7130, www.lightbistro.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Riding your bike by yourself for the first time

CHICKEN

Chicken & Waffles
Southside, $9
Indulging in breakfast at night seemed odd at first — and eating waffles with chicken even more so. One bite into a crispy Belgian waffle topped with a heap of cinnamon butter, powdered sugar and a chicken breast, we wondered why we haven't been eating the soul food-inspired combo more often. The syrupy bites of waffles mixed with juicy chicken worked well — so well we expected to get yelled at for eating dessert for dinner. Once we added a touch of hot sauce, we couldn't handle our utensils fast enough to keep shoveling the sweet, salty and very hot dish in our mouths. 2207 W. 11th St., Tremont, (216) 937-2288, www.southsidecleveland.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Reading the Sunday paper in bed

Buttermilk Fried Chicken
Henry's at the Barn, $19 Henry's at the Barn calls to mind a style that is so definitively Southern, all white tablecloths and clinking wine glasses, with Low Country food given a place of honor at the table. In the midst of this opulent approach, the buttermilk fried chicken seems almost like the country cousin. It rests near the bottom of the menu, after glorious descriptions of all manner of things that swim and trawl the ocean floor, looking so forlorn and • ordinary. But diners who take a chance — and face the consternation of their servers — will revel in every juicy bite. The breading is thick but not greasy, with a satisfying crunch segueing into a boneless piece of pure white meat chicken. The flavor forgoes "deep fried" in favor of "sweet," so its sides are a necessary pop of tomato-stewed collards with a rich tomato taste, smoky black-eyed peas and innocuous crab-and-corn hushpuppies. 36840 Detroit Road, Avon, (440) 328-6088, www.henrysatthebarn.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Walking out of church to find the first warm, sunny day of spring is at hand

Southern Fried Chicken
Fat Fish Blue, $12.99
Fried chicken is to Southerners what clam chowder is to New Englanders. They know how to fix it up right, and this New Orleans-inspired haunt is no exception. The chicken is crispy on the outside and juicy all the way through. Served with "forgot to peel-em" redskin mashers, steamed veggies and a large hunk of melt-in-your-mouth cornbread, it's smothered with a creamy peppercorn gravy that's just spicy enough to keep your taste buds jumpin'. Live blues music and servers who make you feel less like you're being waited on and more like you're sitting around an old friend's kitchen table conjure up feelings of home for anyone, even if you've never set foot in the South. 21 Prospect Ave., Cleveland, (216) 875-6000, www.fatfishblue.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Takes the edge off that end-of-the-day battle with the copy machine.

Creamed Chicken Over Puffed Pastry
Treats Tea Room, $6.95
When we were young, we were known to perform "surgery" on certain dishes to remove vegetables. This earned our parents' reproach, and it certainly wouldn't fly at dinner parties today. Therefore, we were pleased when served Treats Tea Room's creamed chicken over puffed pastry — nary a vegetable in sight. A delicious block of flaky pastry is bathed in a warm, mildly spiced sauce and diced chicken breast. At once, it evokes casseroles and chipped beef and creamed soups. It's uncomplicated, but that's refreshing. It's exactly the dish we would have cooked when we were younger, if we were allowed to touch the stove. 1325 Linda St., Rocky River, (440) 331-3414
COMFORT LEVEL
Like a new, warm pair of fuzzy slippers

Pretzel Chicken
Willoughby Brewing Company, $16.99
For those who love the thick country-fried steak breading that soaks up gravy on the spot, this breaded chicken with its layers of pretzel crumb coating will also do the trick with some extra crunch to boot. The crumb coating acts as a shield to the river of gravy flowing from the melt-in-your-mouth mashed potatoes, but the traditional flour breading soaks up gravy for the perfect ratio of chicken, breading and gravy in each bite. Unlike the customary milk gravy that covers country-fried steak, a whiskey peppercorn sauce evokes the tangy taste of stroganoff. 4057 Erie St., Willoughby, (440) 975-0202, www.willoughbybrewing.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Going to Grandma's for dinner

MAC AND CHEESE

Camembert Mac & Cheese
Wonder Bar, $8
We've traded our Crayolas for a Montblanc, so it's time to redefine what we want in a mac-and-cheese, too. Why not upgrade to Camembert? Sure, it's hard to pronounce, sophisticated and, well, French. But good ol' American gumption melts it, tosses it with noodles and calls it dinner. The mild-as-brie cheese is enticing, but subtle enough to let the flavors of duck and truffled breadcrumbs (you can add them for $2 each) linger and warm your taste buds. Treat for the kids? Nah, this is all about the power lunch. 2044 E. Fourth St., Cleveland, (216) 298-4050, www.wonderbarcleveland.com
COMFORT LEVEL
The broken heel on your brand-new Manolo Blahniks can be fixed.

Spaghetti with Mama's Famous White Sauce
Carrie Cerino's Ristorante, $14
Italian moms — the kind who mutter in their native tongue — ignored the prepackaged blue boxes of elbow mac and powdered cheese in favor of fresh mounds of grated Parmesan cheese atop noodles. That's what Dominic Cerino used as a basis for his Spaghetti with Mama's Famous White Sauce at Carrie Cerino's Ristorante (named after mom). This rich and creamy dish is simple and unpretentious. Cerino says it is comfort: "Huge carbs with the pasta and a ton of fat with the butter and Parmesan cheese. Our white spaghetti is the mac-and-cheese of Norcia in Umbria." 8922 Ridge Road, North Royalton, (440) 237-3434, www.carriecerinos.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Like getting a big hug from mama

Macaroni

Comfort Zone
Cheddar's Café
It started in the small storefront next to Snicker's Tavern in the Detroit Shoreway neighborhood, and has now taken over where Snicker's once was, proving that Cheddar's Café is all about using its noodle (and plenty of off-the-wall ingredients). "Everybody loves macaroni and cheese," says chef Matt Miller. By using local ingredients to give his mac-and-cheese a worldly taste, Miller has found a way to improve upon a favorite. "It takes you back to your childhood," he says. "There are so many things you can do from season to season using different cheeses and ingredients." And there's so much to eat, too. "Our portions are big," Miller says. "You can eat half now and save half for later." We get leftovers, too? Now, that's comforting.

GRECIAN MAC, $9
Why eat another Greek salad when you can have this creamy combination of feta cheese, spinach and salty kalamata olives with a pinch of garlic and basil mixed in a bed of noodles?

TUSCAN MAC, $11
A recent addition, this dish combining prosciutto and artichokes is our absolute favorite. With diced tomatoes, the sauce becomes slightly red and takes on a spaghetti-like quality (in a very good way).

WESTERN MAC, $9
Think Skyline Chili, but better. Wagonwheel pasta is covered in cheese sauce and layered with homemade chili filled with hunks of meat and beans, chopped Spanish onions and, of course, shredded cheddar cheese.

CRAZY MAC & CHEESE, $8
Combining three different pastas (rotini, elbows and penne) isn't the only twist in this dish. Caramelized onions are mixed with a tangy and gooey mess of New York sharp and Cheddar cheese.

5800 Detroit Ave., Cleveland, (216) 631-7555

Sandwiches

Prince Henry Sandwich
Dish Global Deli, $5
Ah, lunchtime. Upon occasion, we've been known to claim it was our favorite class in school. And for legions of brown baggers, lunchtime didn't get any more perfect than a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. We didn't think it was possible to improve on this staple, but Dish Global Deli proved us wrong. Its Prince Henry sandwich pairs natural peanut butter with homemade mango raspberry jelly, served on lightly crisp nine-grain bread. Bananas are also included, but are optional. The sandwich is sweet, fun and refined. 1834 W. 25th St., Cleveland, (216) 589-9700, www.dishglobaldeli.com
COMFORT LEVEL
An extra hour of recess for good behavior

Grilled Cheese Sandwich
John Q's Steakhouse, $6.95
The sports memorabilia that accents the interior of John Q's Steakhouse Downtown may not be comforting to a Clevelander versed in the city's heart-breaking sports history, but this sandwich's four gooey layers of provolone, Swiss, American and Cheddar might. Crispy rye bread, strips of bacon and sweet onions contrast the melted cheese, enticing frustrated sports fans to unclench their jaws and bite into the savory sandwich. Topped with tomatoes and served with John Q's original potato chips, this homemade classic is the remedy when you're sick of losing. 55 Public Square, Cleveland, (216) 861-0900, www.johnqssteakhouse.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Makes another loss a little more bearable

Carolina Pulled Pork Sandwich
Juniper Grille, $7.95
It's hard to top a heaping pile of slow-cooked barbecued pork when it comes to Southern-style comfort. Luckily, downtown workers can get a midday fix in the form of Juniper Grille's multiple-napkins-required take on the classic pulled pork sandwich. (Warning: You won't go back to work smelling like you've been standing over a barbecue pit all day, but you may go back stained. Don't worry. It's worth the risk.) Served open-face style, the shredded pork is slathered in a sweet sauce that packs a kicky tang, mounded on Texas toast and topped with fried onion strings. The dish will leave you happy, full and ready to tackle the rest of your day with an extra dose of Southern Charm. 1332 Carnegie Ave., Cleveland, (216) 771-1334
COMFORT LEVEL
A glass of sweet tea on the hottest day of the year

Mini Kobe Beef Sloppy Joes
Blue Canyon Kitchen & Tavern, $8.99
Born during the Great Depression, when mothers made various meals out of cheap, available ground beef, this messy marvel soon became a dining-hall staple. Sure, a sloppy joe fits on a plastic cafeteria tray as perfectly as a paper-bag cover does on a textbook, but Blue Canyon rescues this dish from an otherwise bleak eternity as Manwich by pairing the world's trendiest beef with Cheddar cheese, chipotle sour cream and those adorable little slider buns. (And there are no hair nets in sight!) 8960 Wilcox Drive, Twinsburg, (330) 486-BLUE, www.blue canyonrestaurant.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Hearing the words "open-book" for that history test you forgot to study for

Jalapeño Tuna Melt
Bistro 185, $8.50 Great food can make forgiveness easy. So, Bistro 185, it's OK that you removed the vintage bowling machine from the North Collinwood tavern that began as Fritz's. And we'll let it slide that our ethnic favorites have touches of fine dining's "global cuisine." Heck, we'll even overlook that our beloved tuna melt is served on a pita rather than rye. Just fire up our souls with those jalapeño slices layered over a cool bed of tuna salad and melted Cheddar. And don't forget the house-made fries, which linger between potato chips and slices. Something this good must be a sin. We'll say an extra Hail Mary. 991 E. 185th St., (216) 481-9635, www.bistro185.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Coffee and doughnuts in the lower church after Mass

YT Medley
Yours Truly, $6.20
This is a trend-obsessed world. The jeans that used to make us look so Vogue cover-worthy are now so eyebrow-raising (and not in a nice way). So it's reassuring to know that some things never change. That's why we go for a YT Medley — a crisp, toasted pita overstuffed with two fried eggs, bacon and melted American and Muenster cheese. It's greasy and filling. And that's the point: no-frills-please. Don't be surprised if the plate of '50s-diner grub makes you say things like "gee-whiz" and "yes, ma'am." Ordinary never felt so good. Various locations, www.ytr.com
COMFORT LEVEL
Last night's stupid mistake doesn't seem quite so embarrassing after all.

Polish Boy
Hot Sauce Williams, $3.65
It is a delicious mess: a spicy kielbasa in a hot dog bun topped off with coleslaw, french fries and a generous ladle of barbecue sauce over it all (plus, you get to watch the sandwich's rapid-fire assembly). The result is reminiscent of how the edges of your food comingle at a paper-plate picnic and create new, yet familiar (and good) flavors. The sweet slaw and barbecue sauce coat the fries without drowning them. Likewise, the hot dog bun never devolves into a soggy mess as you burrow into the heart