Swensons Reverts to Original Ingredients, Process After Negative Customer Feedback

For the bulk of its existence, Swensons Drive-In had been a beloved but localized brand. Wesley “Pop” Swenson opened the first one in 1934 and by 2001 it had grown to seven restaurants – called “stands” – all located in the Greater Akron area. And it stayed that way until 2017, when new investment and leadership ignited a growth spurt. In about seven years’ time, the regional chain tripled in size to 21 locations, including its first outside Ohio. (Swensons has since shuttered one of its Cincinnati locations and the out-of-state stand in Indianapolis.)

Recently, Swensons has been in the news for some subtle and not-so-subtle changes to its menu and operations. A few years ago, because of some Covid-related supply-line challenges, the restaurant changed its hand-sliced cheese. That did not go over well, says CEO Jeff Flowers.

“I learned my lesson once and for all that the cheese at Swensons is here to stay,” he says.
While the cheese, butter and ketchup have all been restored to their pre-Covid status, other changes have prompted outrage from dedicated fans. And rightly so. Not only did Swensons move away from the local family-run bakery that supplies its sandwich buns, they changed the way the buns were toasted and how condiments were applied.

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“The chatter was out there,” Flowers says about the changes. “The guest feedback was out there. We just needed to listen to it. If there is something that we are doing that guests aren’t happy with, we’re going to hear it. It really is a blessing.”

If you’ve ever had the pleasure of enjoying a Galley Boy, then you’re familiar with the crackly, flaky bun on which the famed double cheeseburger arrives. It’s as much of an essential component as the fresh-beef patties and special sauce. About a year ago, Swensons moved away from longtime supplier Massoli’s Bakery in Akron.

“There was a desire from former leadership for something that was different,” Flowers says of the decision.

But rather than continue down the familiar path of maximizing profits at the expense of the product and diner experience, Flowers stepped in and reversed course.

“In and of itself it’s not like you totally remanufactured the whole sandwich,” he explains. “But if you change the way you apply the butter, you change the bun toaster, you change how you put the mustard on it, then all of the sudden these series of smaller changes – it completely changes the product.”

Since forever, Swensons has used spoons and spreaders to apply condiments to sandwiches. A switch to squeeze bottles might seem an innocuous shift, but again the unintended results caused disapproval and, ultimately, a reversal of course.

“It may not sound like a big deal, but it totally changed the application process,” says Flowers. “A lot of times, quite frankly, you end up getting two or three times more mustard or ketchup or mayonnaise on the sandwich, which makes it a sloppier product, a messier product, and it changes the flavor profile. All of these things were done with really good intentions. The thought was that it was going to create an even or consistent experience. But it didn’t.”

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So the Massoli’s buns are back. The vertical toasters are back. And even the utensils that are used to apply the condiments are back. But another recent addition will be taking a hiatus thanks to unintended complications.

A year and a half ago, Swensons rolled out a new collaboration series starring Ohio-based businesses like Black Cap Hot Sauce, Cordelia restaurant and Larder deli. By all outward appearances the collabs were a hit, generating heaps of buzz for both sides of the partnership. But recently, Swensons halted the program, citing challenges with a system that features new food products every month.

“As soon as we start feeling like we’ve got our arms around this new recipe, we’re changing it again,” Flowers says of the limited-time offerings, adding that it’s a slowdown not a shutdown of the series.

But other changes are here to stay. Servers still run up to your car window, but they now take your order on a tablet instead of handwritten guest checks.

“The spirit of the curb server, the sprint and smile, no matter what you’re taking the order on, that’s the part of the experience that we really, absolutely have to protect,” adds Flowers. “As long as it is improving the guest experience but not changing the core, that’s the important part.”

Flowers also says that the company has no immediate plans to open more stands. In light of all the recent adjustments and stresses, the primary focus is on shoring up the principals and practices that have been in place for 92 years.

“Right now, everyone here is focused on getting back to the basics,” says Flowers. “I believe in this brand. I believe in the opportunity to grow this brand. But first and foremost, it’s absolutely about getting back to the consistency with the product and the experience.”

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