Martha on the Fly chef Ryan Beck fell in love with breakfast on his grandparents’ farm near Tiffin, Ohio. The pastoral cooking of his grandmother Martha inspired his elevated, downhome breakfast concept, which pops up each weekend at Good Company in Battery Park, but his great grandmother served as the inspiration for one of the restaurant’s signature dishes: Karleen’s Cornmeal Fries ($6).
The starchy side gets its sweet, creamy center from locally sourced cornmeal, which is mixed with butter, cream cheese, citrus and miso before undergoing a 24-hour path to the deep fryer. With more than 100 orders per day, the fries often sell out. Dunk one in Martha’s Sunshine Sauce, a hollandaise-indebted take on teppanyaki Japanese egg yolk sauce, and you’ll understand why.
“Martha is all about showcasing that style of service and honoring those recipes and food memories from my grandparents and great-grandparents,” says Beck. “But we wanted to make it unique.” 1200 W. 76th St., Cleveland, 844-474-3568, marthaonthefly.com
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