Best Of CLE: Square-Cut Sushi

Hako sushi is less like a hastily rolled traditional wrap and more like a carefully woven tapestry.

Almost too pretty to eat, this style of sushi derived from Osaka, Japan, doesn’t rely on seaweed, but instead carefully embeds each ingredient one on top of the other in between layers of sushi rice inside a small wooden jewelry box before it’s pressed and perfectly cut into square pieces.

Jackie Kim, who previously owned Ohashi, took on this painstaking yet artful process when she opened her new Lakewood restaurant, Hako, in August.

“One box takes five to 10 minutes,” says Kim, who’s taken on the sole responsibility of creating each of the four hako sushi entrees.

But beware, these square-cut gems have limited availability. Beginning this month, Kim will choose one hako sushi entree to create each day of the week, such as a spicy tuna version or the Hako Pretty ($12) made with layers of crabmeat, cream cheese and kiwi.

“We’re too busy to make this all the time,” says Kim. “We need good hands to make these.” 13603 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-273-7110, sushihako.com

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