Best Of Cleveland: Pork Trio

The best things come in threes — especially with Trio’s crispy head to tail pork ($12). When executive chef and owner Anthony Scolaro opened the modern American fine-dining restaurant in the former Bac Asian American Bistro & Bar in Tremont, he experimented with a variety of flavors and cooking techniques. This small plate — which offers up a crispy take on pork belly, pig ears and tails — is as complex and experimental as it is divine. “People are scared when they hear ‘ear’ or ‘pig tail,’ ” says Scolaro. “But we’re able to manipulate those ingredients into something that you wouldn’t expect.” The pork belly is crisp and fatty, slathered in an earthy strawberry sofrito sauce. The pig tail is rich — packed into a meatball, breaded and fried with tarragon, green onion and chives, and a dried apricot Dijon mustard. But the soy-braised pig ears make us head over heels for this dish. Once fried, they’re tossed in an arugula lemon noodle salad with daikon, carrots, dried shitake mushrooms and a dashi vinaigrette. “When you go with a dish like that,” says Scolaro, “you can have so many different experiences on one plate, and that’s what we’re going for.” 2661 W. 14th St., Cleveland, 216-952-7035, triotremont.com

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