Arcadian Food & Drink's Surf and Turf Tartare is an Umami Bomb

It could only exist on a shoreway. The surf and turf tartare ($18) at the long-awaited Arcadian Food & Drink in the Detroit Shoreway neighborhood is half ashore, half seaworthy. An amalgam of beef and a pickled relish of Ohio mushrooms, confit egg yolks, olive oil and mustard seed, this creation sets sail with a dash of fish sauce. Topped with caviar and delicately shaved bottarga, a salty cured fish roe, the carefully constructed cube is a veritable umami bomb. Drop into the restaurant’s sleek dining room, designed by Robert Maschke Architects, and you might catch a glimpse through the glass kitchen wall of co-owner and executive chef Rebecca Hess putting one together. It’s served with an herb salad and pomme frites, and Hess recommends parceling the tartare out as a tasty addition to each. “It’s kind of meant to be a fun, build-a-bite dish,” says Hess. “Obviously you can sit there and eat it yourself, or you can have fun and order additional items and have a nice shared meal.” 6416 Detroit Ave., Cleveland, 216-862-5854, arcadiancle.com