
Thyme Table's House Black Pasta Is Otherworldly
Made with activated charcoal, the entree at the Bay Village restaurant is spellbinding but still approachable. For chef and owner Mike Smith, who opened his 38-seat spot in April, it’s an example of how his menu is fun, familiar and pushes the envelope just a little.
“We’re trying to keep it comfortable,” he says. “There’s nothing that’s going to scare anybody away.”
While the charcoal doesn’t add much flavor to the hand-cut pasta, the accompanying shrimp, fresh peas and a garlic-Parmesan cream sauce do. The striking dish sits atop a house-made pistou — a sauce similar to pesto without the pine nuts — and is finished with fresh pea shoots.
“Everybody who’s had it just kind of loses their mind,” Smith says of the popular dish. “I think we’d have a revolt on our hands if we took it off the menu.”
583 Dover Center Road, Bay Village, 440-617-6964, thymextable.com
food & drink
8:00 AM EST
September 3, 2019