In a foodie world full of creative twists and turns, there's comfort in the classics. That's why a trip to Edwins feels luxurious and familiar all at once. Founder and CEO Brandon Chrostowski, who teaches rehabilitated inmates how to cook classic French cuisine at the Shaker Square restaurant, uses laser-sharp techniques and super-focused precision when in the kitchen. But he's also showing his students there's more than just mixing and measuring when it comes to understanding food. "Anyone can read a recipe," he explains. "It's the soul of French cuisine that a lot of places just don't understand." That passion shines through in one of the restaurant's most popular dishes: the paupiettes de poisson du jour ($29). With only a few ingredients — grouper, potatoes, green beans, red wine and butter — Chrostowski and his crew transform the simple into the sublime. Crispy, wafer-thin potatoes wrap the delicate fish and bring out unexpected smooth yet complex flavors for a dish we adore. DON'T MISS: Edwins is one of a few places in the world that serves Caneton de Rouen a la Presse ($125) — pressed duck with blood sauce prepared tableside. CHEESE, PLEASE: Try the Fromage ($4), an artisan assortment of cheeses curated by Chrostowski and supplied by the Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, Massachusetts. 13101 Shaker Square, Cleveland, 216-921-3333, edwinsrestaurant.org
25 Best Restaurants: Edwins
With a passion French cuisine, Brandon Chrostowski's Shaker Square restaurant has an even bigger mission.
