Lox, Stock And Brisket Is A Slice Above

There’s no lack of Jewish delis on the East Side. But for chef and owner Anthony  Zappola, having that kind of friendly competition is part of the fun.

His Lox, Stock and Brisket, which opened along Cedar Road in University Heights in April, takes many of those Old World traditions and gives them a modern twist. Inside the casual spot, you’ll find a menu of hearty sandwiches and, of course, matzo ball soup.

Fans of brunch will rejoice over the Ridge Lane ($11) sammie constructed with a Bialy’s Bagel — an East Side staple. A schmear of cream cheese and a generous heaping of brined salmon marries with house-made pickles, red onions and dill. Sure, it’s not pushing any culinary boundaries but it’s that perfect bite of creamy, salty and tang.

You’ll also find the Upper East Side ($11), Zappola’s take on the Holy Grail of any deli — the pastrami sandwich. He seasons and brines beef brisket, then smokes it in-house resulting in tender, juicy slices. While not piled as high as others around town, it’s a sandwich full of inspiration and respect. 13892 Cedar Road, University Heights, 216-471-8175,  loxstockandbrisket.com