From the moment you step in the door at Sofia’s Kitchen and Bar, owner Andrew Revy makes it clear that the restaurant isn’t trying to mimic its predecessor, Salt — so clear, in fact, that you’re not even stepping through the same door.
The angled doorway at the corner of Detroit and Rockaway Avenues in Lakewood used to lead diners into the celebrated spot owned by chef Jill Vedaa and sommelier Jessica Parkison. Now, visitors enter Sofia’s, the eclectic American bistro Revy opened in April, through a door a few feet away, squarely facing Detroit Avenue.
“It changed the whole space, so you’re coming in with a different perspective,” says Revy, who named the new restaurant after his oldest daughter. “I wanted to make sure we put our own stamp on the place and created our own vibe.”
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Immediately upon walking inside, Sofia’s is bright and airy with plenty of natural light to make it shine, and it’s decorated with pops of primary colors. The colorful decor matches the menu’s bold flavors and big portions, which often provide enough leftovers to enjoy as tomorrow’s lunch.
Revy already placed his stamp on the dining scene when he opened his successful Immigrant Son Brewery in Lakewood in 2021. To be sure his new spot was distinct from the brewery, Revy brought in veteran chef Andy Strizak, whose resume reads like a veritable “who’s who” (or a “where’s where,” really) of former Cleveland hot spots like Parker’s Downtown, Lolita, Spice Kitchen & Bar and Flying Fig. Most recently, he was behind the scenes at Lucky’s Cafe in Tremont.
“He’s worked with some of the greats, running kitchens for other people,” Revy says of Sofia’s executive chef. “But this is Andy’s turn to shine. He put his stamp on our menu, and it perfectly exemplifies the approachable, American bistro style we wanted — fresh ingredients and a local, seasonal approach, plus a little bit of whimsy.”
Sofia’s menu is full of standouts right from the start, with appetizers like the Shepard’s Fries ($15), a humble-looking dish that’s secretly super sumptuous. In this spin on classic shepherd’s pie, crispy potatoes soak up the rich flavor and juices of perfectly braised lamb, topped with a hearty heap of peas, carrots, lamb gravy and cheese curds. It’s poutine meets deconstructed stew, and it’ll have you literally scraping your plate clean to savor every last bite.
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The roasted beets and carrots salad ($15) is more decadent than a typical salad, pairing chilled red and golden beets with warm carrots, toasted pecans and a sprinkling of delicate greens. Black peppered goat cheese melds with maple balsamic dressing, creating a creamy condiment in a category all its own — sweet, tangy and just a touch acidic.
The hits keep coming with entrees like The Anna ($16), a hearty vegetarian dream of a sandwich named for Revy’s wife. Served on a thick and toasty baguette, it’s laden with a mix of mushrooms, leeks, chili-charred broccoli rabe and sweet and-sour red onions, plus Parmesan and goat cheese.
And speaking of mushrooms, the campanelle ($23) is full of them, roasted with asparagus and fennel and tossed in a surprisingly light cream sauce. It’s topped with breadcrumbs and a little bit of lemon zest, making for a cozy, comforting pasta dish that won’t weigh you down.
Looking for a more carnivorous main course? Sofia’s has those, too. Revy’s personal favorite is the charred chicken thighs ($22) made with a zingy spice rub (“They’re just so well-seasoned,” he raves). There’s also The Zoltán (market price) — a 12-ounce grilled Ohio beef ribeye bearing his son’s first name — and a Greek-inspired lamb burger ($17) flavored with caraway and garlic and topped with vegetables, Swiss cheese and tzatziki.
Revy and Strizak aren’t yet sure how often or how much the menu will change. But they share a commitment to seasonality, so at the very least, diners can expect the first big tweaks to Sofia’s menu as temperatures dip this fall.
“We’ll probably look at a more wholesale change to the menu by the end of the year,” Revy says, “because by then, we’ll know what our fan favorites and signature dishes are that we’ll want to be sure to keep around.”
One thing that isn’t likely to change is the drink menu featuring beers from Immigrant Son. The American Pilsner ($6) pairs perfectly with the prime rib ($28); the coffee porter ($7) is great with desserts; the Kolsch ($7) seems to go well with just about everything. Strizak also works closely with the restaurant’s wine and spirits distributors and with bar manager Ben Lebovic, formerly of LBM and Solstice, to come up with food specials that pair with the restaurant’s wine and cocktail offerings.
“Certain drinks’ flavor profiles go well with certain menu items,” Revy says. “That’s all part of the fun of the process of the customer experience — getting to recommend a glass of wine or a certain cocktail, depending on what they’re ordering.”
But you certainly don’t have to order things that “go together.” When the cocktails are as good as Lebovic’s (or the beer is as good as Immigrant Son’s is), you’ll be forgiven if you just want to order whatever tickles your fancy — like, say, the creamsicle ($13), an homage to his favorite ’80s ice cream truck novelty. It’s a close replica to the recognizable citrusy treat, spiked with Jack Bonded whiskey and Licor 43.
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There’s no doubt that Salt will live on in Clevelanders’ memories, just like other bygone local legends before it. After fewer than six months in business, though, Sofia’s is already making a name for itself as a worthwhile destination in its own right. And if Revy’s vision for its future comes to fruition, that will only become truer with time.
“There was an iconic spot there for eight years, and we had big shoes to fill. Plus, Lakewood has long been a place for fantastic, independent restaurants,” Revy acknowledges. “I just hope Sofia’s will be around for a very long time and that we can be thought of in the same breath.”
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