Before it was Johnny’s Bar on Fulton, it was Louise’s Gardens, a grocery store started by the current owner, Bo Santosuosso's grandmother, in 1924. Since then, four generations of the family have worked at the fine-dining location, making it what it is today. Of course, while the restaurant celebrates 100 years of business, it has some stories to tell.
“I've got a million stories,” Bo says. For his grandma, dad, and mom, all previous owners of the restaurant, “they've all passed away. But they had some great stories, too.”
Grandma Louise and Uncle Johnny
Bo characterized his grandmother, Louise, as the “boss,” and her nickname was Ms. Lillian, after former president Jimmy Carter’s mother. Like Ms. Lillian, Louise was the matriarch who instilled the Santosuossos with their values.
“Yeah, she didn't care [if the customers didn't have money]. She didn't care. Nope,” Bo says. “Give 'em extra chips, give 'em extra french fries. Do this, do that. Oh yeah.”
She was also a character. Louise had her own bookie to bet on the horses, got one of the first liquor licenses after prohibition and lived above the restaurant.
Louise sold the restaurant in the mid-30s, but Bo’s uncle Johnny bought it back in 1952, renaming it Johnny’s before selling it again at some point.
Father Eugene and Mother Frances
In 1974, Bo’s father, Eugene, repurchased the restaurant, which has been in the family ever since. At 19 years old, Bo started working there, and so did his brother Joe, but it was really a family affair.
“My mom and dad were still there, and my grandma, Louise, was still very active at that time,” Bo says. “[Louise] would open up in the morning and let the factory workers come in and have their shots and beers and things like that. And then, my mom and dad were in the kitchen. And I washed dishes.”
Brothers Bo and Joe
When Bo turned 21, his father sent him behind the bar, making him the cocktail slinger he is today. For his brother Joe, “he’s always had a pretty good knack in the kitchen” and is the numbers guy now.
Since then, they’ve served police officers and federal judges, all the way to singer Andy Williams, the rock band Rush, singer Graham Nash, and just recently, Chris Robinson, founder of The Black Crowes.
The Bigger Family
The family of Johnny’s goes beyond the Santosuossos. Bo credits their loyal servers, some of whom have been there for 20-plus years, to their kitchen, like executive chef Joe Fall, who started there at 15 years old as a dishwasher and the customers who always return to keep Johnny’s story going.
“We must be doing something right,” Bo says. “Something, somebody's looking down. Maybe it's grandma and my dad and mom.”
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