You may be going all in on oysters these days. But we're rolling the dice on a tried-and-true classic: clams casino. Downtown's Red, the Steakhouse ups the ante by serving its version ($13) with diced pancetta instead of the standard bacon — a sleight of hand that pays off with its briny, salty flavor. Those bite-sized pieces mix with tender chunks of chopped topneck clams, a dash of vermouth and a layer of breadcrumbs baked until golden and crunchy. Six half-shells come on a platter of rock salt, making this dish a sure-bet winner. 417 Prospect Ave., Cleveland, 216-664-0941, redthesteakhouse.com
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