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About Town: How did the Terminal Tower change Cleveland?

Nov. 14, 2014 | 5:00 AM

Daniel Burnham would've hated the Terminal Tower. The famed architect wanted Cleveland to build its "monumental railroad station" on the lakefront bluff next to City Hall. But in 1919, developers Oris and Mantis Van Sweringen convinced Cleveland voters to let them build a station on Public Square's southwest corner, promising, as one campaign postcard boasted, "The biggest improvement in the History of Cleveland, Without a Dollar of Expense to the People."

The Van Sweringens' landmark, the Terminal Tower, took 10 years to build. It wiped out much of downtown's forlorn Haymarket district, the mid-1800s market district and the city's first slum. The terminal became Cleveland's gateway, the dominant figure on its skyline and its most recognizable symbol. It created a fast streetcar connection to Shaker Heights that helped the suburb grow and developed into today's Green and Blue Rapid lines. The tower cemented Public Square's role as the city's center, like Moses Cleaveland intended it. It deprived the downtown malls of traffic, which kept Burnham's 1903 Group Plan from achieving its goals. But it may have helped prolong the life of Euclid Avenue's shopping district.

The terminal's role evolved as flight and freeway travel surpassed the railroad. But its grandeur and location, and the view from its 42nd-floor observation deck, still inspire loyalty to Cleveland's past and potential.



Can I visit the tower's observation deck?

Yes. The 42nd-floor observation deck, restored to its 1929 appearance, frames downtown's most commanding, sweeping views. It is open on weekends mid-April through Dec. 21. On the way up, you'll switch elevators at the 32nd floor. Don't miss the archways that encircle an inspiring view of the Cuyahoga River's Collision Bend.
 

What is the Terminal Tower's Greenbrier Suite?

The door opens to a dark hallway lined with deep wood paneling from England's Sherwood Forest. The space looks small, until a turn in the hallway reveals a five-room suite, with tall windows, in an English Gothic style. The Terminal Tower's 12th-floor Greenbrier Suite, never open to the public, is a hidden enclave inside Cleveland's greatest landmark. The Van Sweringens, who built the tower, used it as a refuge and sometimes stayed there overnight. They held lunch meetings in the suite's boardroom,
intimidating in its stateliness. Subordinates in their railroad empire would sit at the long table, between a brother on each end. Today, Cleveland's peregrine falcons nest outside the window, enjoying the commanding view of Public Square.

The suite got its name in the 1940s, when the C&O Railway hired designer Dorothy Draper to make it lighter and brighter. Her style survives in the Green Room, a meeting space with a mostly green Chinese-style landscape painting on the walls.

The Van Sweringens and the C&O Railway after them, put up visiting executives in the Greenbrier Suite during sensitive negotiations when discretion was essential. The apartments on floors 13 and 14 are offices now. That leaves three meeting rooms, a kitchen and the Great Hall, a vast den with a peaked, wood-framed ceiling. Visitors included President Harry Truman. Today, current owners Forest City Enterprises, use the suite very occasionally for meetings and company events. Otherwise it survives as a closed vault, a time capsule.
 

Who controls the Terminal Tower lights?

Don Beck has been color coordinating our city's historical skyscraper since 1997. Back then, it took three days and six men to individually fasten colored cellophane on light fixtures around the tower. But after the five-year facade renovation in 2010, 508 computer-operated LED light panels illuminate the top eight floors. "This is the same system used by the Empire State Building," says Beck, the Terminal Tower's director of operations. "But we had it first." More than 18,000 individual red, blue and green LED lights create shades of pink, purple, teal, yellow and orange, as well as 47 preprogrammed themes including wine and gold for the Cleveland Cavaliers and a rainbow for the Gay Games. While he's partial to the patriotic red, white and blue combination and solid purple (actually, 80 percent red, 40 percent green and 100 percent blue), Beck cares mostly about the landmark's appearance. "The colors that look nice on the building are the ones that I like," Beck says.
 

Want to request a color?

Try tweeting @TowerLightsCLE and you may get lucky. "It's the social part of the building," Beck says. "The Empire State Building would never take requests. But Cleveland is cool, and we want people to know we're a little bit more quirky than other places."
 

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