Best Of CLE: Kawarma

Hummus has become a staple for many of us and is sometimes an afterthought as we scoop it on top of veggie bowls and dip handfuls of carrots into it.

But before opening Zhug, Douglas Katz’s Middle Eastern mezze concept, the chef and owner did the most delicious kind of menu research: eating his way through Israel’s culinary scene, with a special emphasis on hummus.

He’s replicated a version back at home — the curried lamb and apricot hummus ($14), a Lebanese style known as kawarma. Using chickpeas, tahini, garlic, lemon and salt, dotted with a light, preserved lemon sauce for a little zip of acidity, he keeps it simple, but the results are still stunning.

The key, Katz says, is to use softened chickpeas and to blend until silky. “A lot of times, hummus isn’t pureed smoothly enough,” he says. “We’re spinning it for up to 10 minutes at a high speed.”

Succulent ground lamb is braised slowly in a blend of tomatoes, apricots, garlic, onions, oregano, red wine vinegar, peppercorns and coriander. Once pureed, it’s topped off with curry oil from the braise for a grand finale that melds flavors and textures.

“We have so many ‘signature dishes’ here,” Katz says, “but if you were to put all your bells and whistles into a dish, this is it for us.” 12413 Cedar Road, Cleveland Heights, 216-862-2508, zhugcle.com

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