Counterpint (2)

Thirty-four-year-old John C. Maier had his work cut out for him. In May of 1989, he became the brewmaster for a one-year-old Oregon brewery. He’d already spent nine years of his life working as an electrician for Hughes Aircraft Co. His job there? “Top Gun” stuff. Maier was senior electronic technician for the F-14 Tomcat.

While he liked working on the Tomcat radar, John had his artillery set on a new target. He wanted to make beer. Maier’s beer, however, would be — in the words of his company’s slogan — “Dedicated to the Rogue in all of us.” It would never be served ice cold, and he wanted it perfect.

Today, Rogue Ales Brewery continues to run on those two principles and 28 others. It’s named after the famously wild and rowdy river that courses through the state and, like its namesake, Rogue will often move in the opposite direction of mainstream breweries.

This fall, Heinen’s will carry the following two examples of the Oregon brewery’s singular ales. If there’s any rogue in you, you’ll want to check them out.

Dead Guy Ale was originally created to celebrate the Mayan Day of the Dead. Dead Guy Ale is a spin-off of the typical German-styled Maibock. While the traditional Maibock is a lager, Dead Guy is made with the “PacMan” ale yeast.

Four different malts contribute to the classic Maibock presentation, while the Perle and Saaz hops are used to give the ale an added bitterness. Along with the flavor, the aromas are decidedly sweet, both from the malt and the hops. This is great with chili, stews, burgers, pizza and spicy Thai and Asian foods.

Morimoto Black Obi Soba is made in conjunction with the Food Network’s famous Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto. Brewed with roasted buckwheat, this ale has a rich, malty flavor with a nutty nuance to it. Three different hops, including Cascade, give the beer zip and great balance. Food pairings include grilled chicken or fish, roasted vegetables or spinach salad with blue cheese.