Don's Lighthouse Grille lets its food and service speak for itself. This longtime seafood establishment, located just off the Shoreway on Cleveland's West Side, is refreshingly devoid of trendy touches. An architecturally interesting building both inside and out, it would suit fine dining along the New England coast as well it fits its lake-view perch here.
Our Saturday-night dinner began with appetizers to share. If you're adverse to either garlic or onions, steer clear of the mussels Pernod ($9). Otherwise, a generous portion of the shellfish swim — but aren't drowning — in the light, creamy sauce. Brie ($9) with a light almond crust was served with plenty of ciabatta toast and a strawberry-balsamic compote that lent an understated sweetness — just the right touch. The crab cakes ($10) were delicious and full of lump crabmeat, but accompanied by an apricot sweet-and-sour sauce just a touch too reminiscent of the Chinese topping for our tastes.
Among the entrees, our Block Island swordfish ($21) was meaty, nicely seared and sided by wild rice and asparagus that didn't overwhelm the flavor of the steaklike fish. The surf and turf ($38) was a tasty pairing and easy to eat since the Caribbean lobster tail had already been detached from its shell before serving.
Not just a seafood operation, Don's Lighthouse also offers an assortment of landlubber meats, sandwiches and pastas. In addition to the dining room, the spacious bar area has ample seating and is an ideal place to relax with friends for drinks and conversation. Service is attentive yet not intrusive.
Don's Lighthouse Grille, 8905 Lake Road, Cleveland, (216) 961-6700. Hours: Mon-Thu 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m., Fri 11:30 a.m. - 11 p.m., Sat 5 - 11 p.m., Sun 4:30- 9 p.m. A,D,DS,M,V $$$
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