Quick Bites (3)

'Stino da Napoli

In past trips to 'Stino da Napoli, we have always ordered the Gnocchi alla Napoletana ($11.95), finding it difficult to pass up another taste of the hand-rolled dumplings baked with marinara, mozzarella, ricotta and Parmigiano. On our most recent visit, our server wisely suggested ordering a side of the gnocchi ($2.50 extra) and exploring new ground with our main course.

We opted for the Petto di Pollo alla Domiziana ($13.95), boneless chicken breast sautéed with fresh mushrooms, tomatoes, garlic, herbs and a light white-wine sauce, and found it a worthy challenger to our old favorite. Our companion, who ordered Penne alla Arrabbiata at least five times on a recent trip to Rome, describes 'Stino's version ($8.95) as having a much chunkier tomato sauce (which he likes) and a nice, spicy taste — just like the Italian original. The serving was generous enough to kill any notion of a secondi piatti or even dessert. Service on our visit was good, but not exceptional, which, in our opinion, adds to the casual, lively Neapolitan flavor of the restaurant.

On another visit, we chose to sample one of the restaurant's rotating daily specials: Fettuccine alla Mugnaia ($9.50). The fettuccine seemed an unusually heavy pasta choice for the diced eggplant and tomatoes, but our dessert was divine: a light, silky lemon square ($3.75) that we will order again next time — along with the gnocchi, of course.

'Stino da Napoli, 19070 Old Detroit Road, Rocky River, (440) 331-3944. Hours: Tue-Fri 5 - 9:30 p.m., Sat noon - 10 p.m. Weekend reservations essential. No credit cards. Wheelchair accessible.

James Dominic's Fine Italian Restaurant

There's something weirdly beautiful about broccoli as an appetizer. At James Dominic's, crushed roasted garlic, olive oil and Parmesan cheese adorn lush whole heads of the stuff, making you forget that what you're about to eat was the bane of your childhood. The broccoli ($5.95) is cooked perfectly: not too crisp and not flaccid. The flavor? Let's just say this is not your mother's broccoli.

James Dominic's is a worthy establishment with a varied menu (from traditional pizzas to salmon) and one of the more inviting dining settings on the West Side, as long as you're not crammed into overflow seating by the bar.

On our recent visit, we ordered a medium-rare steak au poivre ($19.95) and stuffed scampi wrapped in bacon ($19.95), both with garlic mashers. The high-quality steak was prepared to our specifications and the scampi also proved admirable. We were, however, disappointed by the garlic mashers, if only because the menu doesn't specify they're cheesy garlic mashers, an important detail for the lactose intolerant. Presentation of both plates rates high, accented by parsley flake-embedded fried potato wafers crowning our mashers.

The staff is warm, enthusiastic and adept. Our server managed well with a too-small table in a tight space, juggling and placing appetizer, salad and bread plates with aplomb.

James Dominic's wine list is adequate and no more pricey than those of its competitors. Specials on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays — any appetizer for $2 with the purchase of a bottle of wine — will assuage any wine sticker shock you might suffer.

James Dominic's Fine Italian Restaurant, 27200 Detroit Road, Westlake, (440) 835-1721. A,M,V Wheelchair accessible. Hours: Mon-Thu 4 - 10 p.m., Fri and Sat 4 - 11 p.m., Sun -4 - 9 p.m.