Architect Frank Gehry's fascination with fish is evident in the crashing waves and glittering steel "scales" that grace the Peter B. Lewis Building at Case Western Reserve University. Fittingly, the work of Sergio Abramof, bwner and executive chef of Sergio's in University Circle, is also infused with finny flourishes.
¨n Sergio's patio, the two men's passions mingle with inspiring results. Surrounded by potted palms and jazz or tropical music, diners gazing at Gehry's silver swells
can almost taste the saltwater spray of a Brazilian oceanside cafe.
Our Brazilian-style bouillabaisse ($22.50) blended several large shrimp with clams, mussels and chunks of fresh halibut, all swimming in a tomato-herb broth over Brazilian rice. You'll want a spoon and plenty of warm crusty rolls to sop up every drop of the spicy red liquid. Unfortunately, we had to ask our inattentive server for more rolls to finish the job. Brazil's Xingu Black Beer, a full-bodied black lager, complemented the sweet and spicy flavors ideally. A Cuervo margarita or a caipirinha — the national drink of Brazil, made from cachaca, crushed lime and sugar — also provides a soothing chill on the taste buds.
Other favorites include the tender, perfectly cooked beef churasco mini barbecue skewers ($5.95) as a starter or lunch entree; the Asian-influenced shrimp croquette salad ($8.95) and the orecchiette pasta ($14.50), which blends rich, smoked chicken with spinach and the tiny pasta discs in a fontina cheese sauce.
The evening was so enjoyable in our University Circle paradise, we could have easily ditched our after-dinner plans and spent the rest of the night there with some Brazilian caramel custard and a plunger-pot of coffee.
Sergio's in University Circle, 1903 Ford Drive, Cleveland, (216) 231-1234. Hours: lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Dinner: Mon-Thu 5:30 - 9:30 p.m., Fri and Sat 5:30 - 11 p.m., Sun 4 - 9 p.m. A,D,M,V. Wheelchair accessible.
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