The Greek Village Grille

You can't fit your big fat Greek family, or even your small one, at this restaurant's four two-seater tables. But you can feed them with cash to spare. At only $4.50, the gyros runneth over with meat. In the U.S. we associate lamb and beef with the dish, but in Greece, it's pork. So that's what we tried with tomato, onion and cool tzatziki on a soft pita. The meat is carved in true gyro shop fashion from a vertical rotating rotisserie, so you get moist yet crispy, thin shavings. Beyond pitas, the menu offers a short list of entrees, including moussaka ($8), and sides or appetizers, such as flaky spanakopita ($2) and dolmades ($4). For variety, try the tri-dip platter ($8), your choice of three of five cold dips. We liked the meltzanosalata (a garlicky eggplant dip) and the roasted red pepper hummus. For dessert, use the loose change in your car. The only thing better than baklava ($1.50) is baklava smothered in chocolate ($2). Cheap and authentic, Greek Village is the kind of place you stumble into after bar nights in Europe. That seems to be the idea here on Fridays and Saturdays, when the spits turn until 4 a.m. So after your next late night in Lakewood, don't run for the border, run to Greek Village.

14019 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-228-4976, greekvillagegrille.com