It’s been nine years since a Cleveland chef last took home a James Beard Award. But today, chef Vinnie Cimino of Cordelia on East Fourth Street is one step closer to updating that statistic.
“Being nominated for a James Beard Award was beyond my wildest dreams and expectations,” Cimino says, “especially for being open for just a year and a half.”
In January, the James Beard Foundation named Cimino one of 20 semifinalists in the category of Best Chef: Great Lakes, which encompasses the states of Illinois, Indiana, Michigan and Ohio. Today, it released its narrowed-down list of just five semifinalists — and Cimino made the cut.
“I'm not a spring chicken,” says the chef, 40. “I’ve worked for so many people, and Cordelia is the first time I’ve been able to do my own thing on my own terms. But you don’t set out to [win an award]; you don’t ever expect it. So I’m just completely in shock.”
To Clevelanders, though, it’s no surprise that Cimino would be recognized for the food he puts out at Cordelia, which was named Cleveland Magazine’s Best New Restaurant of 2023. His food celebrates Midwestern heritage, tapping into deep nostalgia and the emotional ties that connect us to home — while always keeping things fun, innovative and, of course, utterly delicious.
One of Cordelia’s most popular dishes is the now-iconic Burger Box ($22), a juicy, shareable burger created in ode to White Castle’s sliders; it’s topped with a crispy “cheese skirt” and neon green Kool-Aid-soaked pickles. Throughout the every-changing, seasonal menu, tributes to Northeast Ohio abound, as in the spaetzle e pepe ($22), an homage to Cleveland’s deep Eastern European roots, and even in the overdressed greens ($12), a side salad that pays tribute to the famously cheese-heavy version so popular at Luigi’s in Akron, where Cimino grew up.
“I'm proud of what we’ve done,” he says, “and I’m proud to continue to do it and to keep pushing to do better every day. I will forever spend my days making sure that I am living up to these expectations — just being appreciative and thankful for the opportunities that we’ve had.”
One other Ohio chef, Cincinnati-based Jose Salazar, also made it to the finals in the Best Chef: Great Lakes category. Salazar, who came to Cordelia in February to cook at a charity benefit dinner, is the owner of multiple restaurants, including Mita's, Goose and Elder and the forthcoming Safi, a Moroccan wine bar. Rounding out the Great Lakes Region finalists are chef Hajime Sato of Sozai in Clawson, MI, and chef Sujan Sarkar of Indienne and Jenner Tomaska of Esmé, both in Chicago.
Winners of the Jams Beard 2024 Restaurant and Chef Awards will be announced at a love ceremony on June 10 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.
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