In my reporting on Cleveland's food scene, a few restaurants from the past come up time and time again. I was lucky enough to visit a few of them before they closed: The Greenhouse Tavern, The Plum and Sokolowski's University Inn. Other spots — Lola in Tremont and Douglas Katz's Fire — I simply wasn't old enough or in the know enough to catch. Yet, I feel like I know these places because of the impact they left on diners.
Gamekeeper's Taverne is another one of those spots. Proprietor Tom Lutz launched the Chagrin Falls eatery in 1976 with a focus on game meat. In its 40 years, the cozy, haphazard English hunting cottage grew evermore chic, elegant and intentional. Adjacent to the Inn of Chagrin Falls, the homestyle restaurant felt like a luxury bed and breakfast and hosted guests as diverse as the area’s wealthiest diners, locals celebrating birthdays and proposals, and even celebrities such as actor Michael J. Fox and former Cleveland Browns coach Bill Belichick.
(Photo courtesy Tiffany Joy Photography)
Despite dishes as memorable as elk medallions and ostrich skewers, the patio is truly what put Gamekeeper's on the map. Google images of the space look a little pedestrian now, but this was long before pandemic dining perfected and popularized outdoor eateries. For Northeast Ohio diners, the space with a big canopy tree above was familiar, transformative and so beloved it still gets votes for Best Outdoor Dining in our Silver Spoon Awards.
“This used to be the hottest patio in all of Cleveland,” says restaurateur Rick Doody.
Doody, whose now-closed Bravo/Brio restaurants spark 2000s Cleveland foodie nostalgia, knows the space well. His office — where he runs a five-restaurant food empire including Bar Italia, Cedar Creek Grille and Lindey’s Lakehouse — is next door. His wife, Wendy, runs W Design across the street. Nearby is also Doody’s 17 River Grille, which overlooks the waterfall and is outdoor dining perfected.
After Gamekeeper's closed in 2017, successor Bull & Bird's impressive run was cut short by the pandemic. Doody, eager to carry the iconic restaurant and patio into the future, quickly snagged it.
"We felt we could make our Backyard something special," he says.
(Photo courtesy Tiffany Joy Photography)
In May 2022, a few months after opening JoJo's Bar, an Italian Steakhouse concept, Doody launched JoJo's Backyard, an umbrellaed oasis with a live-fire Argentine grill. Diners are transported to what feels like a country club pool bar in Naples, Florida, where Doody also happens to own a Bar Italia and a forthcoming grill.
What the space is not that reminiscent of, except maybe in spirit, is the former Gamekeeper's Taverne. Both inside and out underwent a total gutjob by W Design. A year of construction involved collaborating with the local Architectural Board of Review to maintain the integrity of the historic building. "They wanted to keep the old cottage feel," says Doody.
The result is two totally new experiences in familiar spaces. The indoor dining room and bar, which seat more than 100, is lively with tall ceilings and slightly baroque features, like the checkered barroom floor, chandeliers and a fireplace. Meanwhile, the cavernous patio is a shoppers' casual escape from the sun. Flower walls and greenery, as well as wicker fixtures and furniture that never get hot to the touch, show masterful detail. There are no reservations, and you can probably get away with shorts and a T-shirt.
(Photo courtesy Tiffany Joy Photography)
An initial point of confusion for me was the Argentine grill, a beacon of outdoor cooking that provides a 600-
degree char on meat, fish and veggies. This live-fire tool implies Argentinian steakhouse cuisine, which is an awesome, specific concept that's under served in Cleveland (JaJa does it well). Chimichurri, the classic condiment of this genre, is found only atop the Grilled Jumbo Shrimp with Fresh Watermelon ($19), which is spicy and refreshing but not itch-scratching. Instead, JoJo's executive chef Rob Records elevates backyard cookout classics to luxury.
The wood-fired hearth offers 10 to 15 options, depending on specials, that are unique to the Backyard. The dishes that shine most at JoJo’s Backyard remind one of that one family member whose cookouts are always over-the-top. (Shoutout Uncle Phil!) Think Knife & Fork Ribs ($35), Backyard American Cheeseburger ($22) and char-grilled prime New York Strip ($49), butchered in-house (along with all the beef options) and served with onion straws.
(Photo courtesy Lizzie Schlafer)
If you’re looking lighter, try the Grilled Corn on the Husk ($7), charred and buttered. I had a blast figuring out how to eat grilled artichoke ($15) (drag your teeth across the soft, white part of the petal for a fatty, savory treat; don't forget the heart) and dipping it in a house-made remoulade. Forthcoming or recently added options such as the Wagyu Beef Sloppy JoJos and the Tuna Nicoise with fresh seared tuna, mixed greens, potatoes, pickled red onions and a poached egg show more focused steps in this ambitious direction.
"Being a restaurateur is incumbent on keeping things fresh," says Doody, who was literally tweaking the menu throughout this interview. "Those fine details are what kept people coming back to Gamekeeper's for so long."
You're not missing out if you can't get a spot on the 88-seat patio. JoJo's Bar has perfected its indoor menu. The greatest hits, including the wagyu beef carpaccio ($17), which eats like a salad with lemon-tossed arugula, are also available on the patio.
These days, admittedly, I find myself most engrossed in the boundary-pushing, cutting-edge and plain-funky spots. But spicy carbone-style vodka rigatoni ($23), creamy branzino ($28) and Filet Oscar ($44-$64) are good reminders that the classics are classics for a reason.
So if you're looking for a taste of nostalgia done right and pushed forward, JoJo's Bar and Backyard are worthy heirs to Gamekeeper's legacy.
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