Don’t call Momocho authentic Mexican cuisine. At least don’t say it within earshot of chef and owner Eric Williams. “It’s great that people love us, but when they review us, they say authentic Mexican,” he says. “There’s nothing authentic about it.” Instead, Williams, who opened the Ohio City spot in 2006, says he tries to capture the flavors of Mexico in a way he thinks Clevelanders might enjoy. We caught up with Williams to get his takes on tacos, longevity and more.
On Tacos as an Entree: I didn’t want to be a single tortilla type place for $2.50. There’s no money in that. So, you do an entree and you make it substantial, accessible, exciting and fresh. Now I can charge $14-$25. It was more of a business decision instead of having the cooks bang out hundreds of little tacos, one by one with special instructions and that kind of stuff. On Longevity: Coming back out of COVID-19, I always wonder why I’m still doing this. But the people that are my co-workers are my family. I spend more time with them than I do anybody else. I have a lot of respect for this industry, and I don’t know what I would do if this was removed from my life.
On What Makes a Good Taco: I love simple street tacos. It could be ground beef or something more elevated. Tacos should have some spice. They should have some link to the history, meaning cilantro, chiles, onions, something that can tie back to what a taco is. And it always should have a pop of acid. If you can get that combination, you have a hit. On Inspiration: For years I wouldn’t change the menu because it was working. Then I realized that I wasn’t challenging myself and I wasn’t challenging my cooks. How long will Momocho survive if I’m unable to excite the people who come and eat there? So we change things during different seasons, sometimes changing the decor and sometimes taking a popular dish off the menu.
Cleveland Taco Guide: Momocho Chef And Owner Eric Williams Brings Integrity To Experimentation
The owner of the Ohio City spot has built his restaurant around trying to capture the flavor of Mexico in a way Clevelanders will like.
food & drink
7:00 AM EST
July 26, 2021