You can tell a lot about a place by its bread.
At Trio in Tremont, chef and owner Anthony Scolaro doesn’t try to get too fancy with the simple offering. Just a classic French baguette from On the Rise Artisan Breads paired with creamy burrata, honeycomb and a house-made compote, such as strawberry or apple butter.
The thoughtfulness and care put into not over-“chefing” a dish makes Trio’s
lineup of small plates a culinary gold mine of clean, bright flavors working in harmony instead of competing with each other.
Don’t get us wrong, the dishes here are still whimsical, fun and make you think. But each dish is done with just enough restraint that you get familiar flavors with each bite.
For example, a recent beef stew ($13) doesn’t resemble a bowl of broth at all. Instead, an artistic plate of carrot ravioli filled with short ribs and placed between bits of potato, carrots and pearl onions arrives. It tastes like mom’s homemade version, just better.
“We like to be adventurous. That’s what we’re there for,” Scolaro says. “We try to help people try things and be adventurous eaters as well.”
And that’s easy to do with a menu that changes with the seasons — a new menu launched late last month — and prices that encourage sharing among the table. Diners can choose between 15 to 20 options.
“We want you to try things,” he says. “We love food, it’s what we do. We’re passionate about it, and we want you to see that passion in the dish that you get.”
2661 W. 14th St., Cleveland, 216-952-7035, triotremont.com
