Silver Spoons: We've taken beef short ribs to new heights.

So there I was, sitting down to my third dinner of the evening. Forking up big bites of tender short ribs at 9:30 p.m., I thought, Either mine is the best job in the world (I get paid to do this!) or the worst (I am doomed to grow very, very fat). Conundrums like this are best pondered with a glass of wine close at hand. After a sip of my Norman No Nonsense Meritage, a California red, and another forkful of fall-off-the-bone, slow cooked meat, I concluded that being thin is overrated. And beef short ribs have been underappreciated for far too long. Once considered humble food — inexpensive, fatty, tough and suitable for steerage class — beef short ribs have become a top hog on restaurant menus. They invoke homey comfort foods and adapt to all sorts of seasonings, offering chefs a chance to show off. Anybody can make a filet mignon taste good. But it takes skill (and time) to transform this stuff. Here are five of our favorites.

 

Restaurant	Dish	Side	Why We Love It	Price
Three Birds 18515 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, (216) 221-3500 Chef: Rachel Spieth	Braised short ribs	Caramelized onion mashed potatoes and spicy kale	The fork-tender meat is dressed in classic stock-based reduction sauce made with red wine and tomatoes.	$23.
Fahrenheit 2417 Professor Ave., Cleveland, (216) 781-8858 Chef: Rocco Whalen	Snake River Farms Kobe short ribs	Baby bok choy and teriyaki lo mein noodles	The meat’s from a breed of pampered steers, so the texture is pure satin. They’re seasoned and sided with a nod to Chinese tradition, but the result is completely original.	$27
The Flying Fig 2523 Market Ave., Cleveland, (216) 241-4243 Chef: Karen Small	Grilled short rib small plate	Sauteed broccolini	Dark spicy hoisin glaze gives the velvety meat a touch of sweetness, while sea salt and garlic add extra zip.	$9.
Grovewood Tavern 17105 Grovewood Ave., Cleveland, (216) 531-4900 Chef: Brandon Kercher	Zinfandel short ribs	Barley risotto and gremolata (a garnish of parsley, lemon peel and garlic)	Black Angus beef braised in wine has the texture of a perfect pot roast. In a kalamata olive oil and dried cherry sauce that adds a nice fruit note echoing the grapiness of the Zin.	$18.75
Gavi’s Restaurant 38257 Glenn Ave. Willoughby, (440) 942-8008 Chef: Ron Romanini	Fettucine con Coste di Maiale	Mesclun green salad	Who knew short ribs belonged in pasta? The tender pieces, combined with hot sausage and the al dente fettucine, mix comfort food with class.	$21.95