Ordering the assorted cheeses at L’Albatros (3 for $9, 5 for $12 or 7 for $15) is like signing up for a crash course on the world’s best cheeses. Your instructor, resident fromager Brandon Chrostowski, constantly flies in fresh cheese from around the globe and maintains a quirky mix of at least a dozen revered cheeses to sample. He sets up his classroom tableside, a large wooden folding board topped with hunks of moldy, marbled and funky looking cheese. With a cutting knife as his pointer, the lesson begins. Perhaps you’d enjoy a snackable earth rind with a taste of fall leaves or maybe a stinky one made with truffles from Italy? He uses the word “sexy” to describe cheese made from an Ayrshire cow’s milk. It’s a far cry from anything you’ll find in a grocery dairy aisle. 11401 Bellflower Road, Cleveland, 216-791-7880, albatrosbrasserie.com
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