American diners are still coming around to tacos as fine dining — especially ones with a $16 price tag. But Momocho owner and chef Eric Williams proves those people wrong one coffee-and-chile ancho-braised beef machaca tostada ($15) at a time.
“Just like today everyone thinks Asian food is Chinese carry-out, 15 years ago the only Mexican food people knew was margaritas, guac and tacos,” Williams says. “The premise of Momocho was to celebrate those items but elevate them.”
He’s done that the conventional way with fresh-to-order, top-notch ingredients — but also by expanding diners’ knowledge of Mexican cuisine and culture.
Williams had to learn himself. His father bought the aspiring chef Latin American and Mexican cookbooks — an attempt to inspire his college dropout son. Williams’ edible intrigue quickly evolved into exploration of Frida Kahlo, Mexican comic books and luchador wrestling.
Through a menu that expands way past pinched tortillas, Williams has become our tutor. When the enfrijoladas ($16.50), a quarter-folded quesadilla stuffed with roasted chicken, beet pico de gallo and tomatillo mole verde wouldn’t sell, Williams simply added the word “quesaditas” to the menu. The dish quickly catapulted to the top 10 percent of sales.
“I knew people would like the flavor profiles, but I had to get them to try something new,” he says. “You can go to a number of watered-down taco joints, but none of them are going to challenge and educate like we will.”
Insider Tip: For a night alone without getting a sitter, plant the kids at the two-top chef’s table, where the little ones (or even you) will ooh and aah at fire and edible artistry. 1835 Fulton Road, Cleveland, 216-694-2122, momocho.com
25 Best Restaurants: Momocho
The off-the-beaten-path Ohio City spot is more than just elevated Mexican food — it's a crash course in culture.
