In existence for centuries, tinned fish is hardly a new concept. But as far as “trends” go, this one shows no signs of letting up. What began as a pandemic-era curiosity has evolved into a day-to-day delight that’s being sold — and served up — at numerous local restaurants and retail shops.
“I have to give the nod to TikTok and other forms of social media because it’s become one of the top-trending items,” says Tom Leguard, the resident cheesemonger at Astoria Cafe & Market in Gordon Square. Since Astoria opened in 2016, the selection of tinned fish has grown to more than 30 — right alongside the demand, he adds.
The specialty food’s current popularity stands in stark contrast to the attitude that prevailed in this country just a few short years ago. To many, “fish in a can” conjures images of stinky sardines consumed by people who can’t afford fresh seafood. Chef Natasha Pogrebinsky of South Side in Tremont says that’s a uniquely American viewpoint.
“Many people don’t understand that there is such a thing as a tinned-fish delicacy,” she says
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Historically, the best products have hailed from Spain, Portugal and Italy, but seafood-rich regions in America are getting in on the act. While sardines first come to mind, those tins are lovingly packed with mussels, razor clams, cockles, scallops, lobster and sea urchins. The seafood can be grilled, smoked, packed in olive oil or whipped into a spread. The best selections can be found at Mediterranean Imported Foods at the West Side Market, the Wine Spot in Cleveland Heights and Yeleseyevsky Deli in Lyndhurst.
Increasingly, tinned fish is popping up on restaurant menus around town. At places like Astoria, South Side, Patron Saint, Cent’s Pizza and The Judith, select tins are opened and served with various accoutrements.
Astoria Cafe & Market
Playfully named #Tinfishtok ($25-$30) on the menu, Astoria’s tinned fish board is a colorful bounty of pickled peppers, fresh veggies, whole-grain mustard, housemade aioli and sliced bread. On offer are Matiz-brand sardines, mussels and octopus. astoriacafemarket.com
Cent’s Pizza and Goods
The main draw at this buzzy Ohio City pizzeria is the wood-fired pie, but regulars know to start with some tins. Cent’s is one of the few places in town that stocks Güeyu Mar, a gourmet brand from Spain. Before going into the cans, seafood like sardines, razor clams, red tuna and squid are grilled over wood, giving them a remarkable flavor and texture. centspizza.com
The Judith
Tinned fish is the perfect match for the effortless-elegant vibe at the Judith in Ohio City. At this all-day cafe, tins of U.S.-based Minnow ($13.50-$18) are cracked and served in various forms. We adore the “dressed tinned fish” platter loaded with greens, cheese, olives, cornichon, crostini and your choice of tin. thejudith.cafe
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