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Fry-Yay: Five French Fry Spots We Love
From Bar Cento's pomme frites to Smokin Thyme Kitchen's Cajun beer-battered sticks, here's a round-up of the fries we love.
Bar Cento’s pomme frites ($7 and $12) are a Cleveland must-try. Cooked twice in duck fat then tossed with generous amounts of locally sourced fresh rosemary and crushed raw garlic, they come with curry, garlic and red pepper aiolis. “We’ve been serving that dish for 12 years now and we haven’t changed the recipe at all,” says owner Sam McNulty. “There would be riots in the streets if we did.” 1948 W. 25th St., Cleveland, 216-274-1010, barcento.com
Deagan’s Kitchen & Bar
The house fries ($8) are topped with Parmesan, truffle oil and scallions and paired with spicy mayo and ketchup. “Some people might be intimidated by certain things on the menu, but fries are kind of universal,” says owner Daniel Deagan. We suggest pairing an order of the popular bar snack with one of the Lakewood spot’s beer cocktails. 14810 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-767-5775, deagans.com
Lola Bistro
Even the house fries ($7) at Lola Bistro get the Iron Chef treatment. Potatoes are julienned into shoestrings then tossed in sea salt and rosemary. Order them as an appetizer or add them as a side with the hanger steak, which is an homage to the classic steak frites. “It’s just a great iconic snack that everybody loves,” says executive chef Jacob Micile. Pro-tip: Be sure to ask for a side of house-made ketchup. 2058 E. Fourth St., Cleveland, 216-621-5652, lolabistro.com
Smokin Thyme Kitchen
Owner David Kaplan and his father created the original recipe for his Cajun beer-battered fries ($5) almost 10 years ago, culling inspiration from Jamaican-style bread and New Orleans spices. The fries are blanched before they’re dipped in coconut oil and the signature cajun beer-batter before hitting the fryer. “I’m not picky about a lot of things, but for my French fries, there’s a lot of love that goes into them,” Kaplan says. 14201 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-712-4126, facebook.com/smokinthymekitchen
Yours Truly
Yours Truly’s famous Notso Fries ($5.20-$8) have quite the reputation — even beyond Cleveland. A bundle of round cottage fries — think silver dollars with crinkles — are layered with shredded cheese, real bacon bits and sour cream. “I happened to be in Paris and I mentioned I owned the restaurant and I said I was from Cleveland and they said, ‘Oh, I love Yours Truly and I love your Notso Fries,’ ” says partner and chairman Lawrence Schibley. Various locations, ytr.com
food & drink
8:00 AM EST
July 12, 2019