Best of Cleveland 2011: Food

Tartare

You may have had beef tartare before. But Club Isabella executive chef and owner Fabio Mota wants his guests to get really raw with his tartare sampler ($12). "Not everyone does salmon and tuna," he says of pairing the duo with beef, a deep-fried egg (a staple of the Le Cordon Bleu trained chef), toast and locally grown microgreens from Sirna's Market & Deli in Aurora. "I am partial to beef, but the trio works well together." Each tartare is prepared and seasoned exactly the same to allow the individual flavors to come through. As for how to eat his French-inspired masterpiece, Mota suggests spreading one of the tartares on a piece of toast then add a little of the runny yolk from the egg and top it off with the greens. "It's contemporary classic done up in a modern way." 2175 Cornell Road, Cleveland, 216-229-1111, clubisabella.com


Olive Oil

One glance at The Olive Scene's wall of extra-virgin olive oils, with names such as hojiblanca and picholine, and you realize you know nothing about olive oil. But employees are quick to educate, telling you how the shop's oils are never more than a year old, pressed in either the Northern or Southern hemispheres depending on the time of year, or how fresh oil retains health benefits and varied flavor notes. When left to sample, you'll taste that for yourself: An Australian koroneiki has hints of ripe banana, and a bold Chilean frantoio is earthier and peppery. Farther down the wall, infusions such as chipotle have intense added flavor. Making good food easier and ensuring buyers have many ways to use the products is just as important as the quality, so the staff shares ideas and recipes, many gathered from the owners' Mediterranean families. "We cannot get away from having busy schedules, but we can get away from fast food," says co-owner Tracy Camera Lockhart. "That's what we're trying to provide." 19132 Old Detroit Road, Rocky River, 440-895-9999, theolivescene.com

Luxury Sunday Buffet

Indulging in the chef-inspired Sunday brunch ($47) at the Ritz-Carlton's Muse is like running a marathon. It's all about pacing yourself and not eating too fast. But with more than 50 seasonal and local offerings such as wild boar, crab legs and house-cured smoked salmon, it's hard not to sprint to the head of the line. The extravagant spread, which changes weekly, is laid out in what executive chef Richard Sören Arnoldi calls a food box: one side savory, one side breakfast items and two action stations (think make-your-own eggs Benedict and roast beef carving areas). Don't worry about the amount of plates you'll need to sample all the sushi, salad, shrimp cocktail, dim sum, pastries, desserts, omelets, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, soup, hash browns and fresh fruit — the staff isn't counting, says Arnoldi. "That's an invasion of someone's personal space." 1515 W. Third St., Cleveland, 216-623-1300, ritzcarlton.com


Arepas

It doesn't take a long flight to taste Colombia's street food scene. Barroco Grill, owned by Colombian transplant Juan Vergara, specializes in soft, thick corn-tortilla pockets, called arepas, which are popular with the late-night crowd in Vergara's native country. There, arepas actually started as a breakfast food. Venezuelans later began stuffing them with rice, and the food evolved from there. At Barroco Grill, nine options ($6) are packed with veggies and meats, from classic chorizo to the more Americanized Buffalo chicken and tuna salad. "We make [the arepa] the real traditional way," Juan says. "It's a three-day process. You cook the corn, let it soak for a day; then you have to grind it into a paste." Juan's father, Carlos, who owned a food cart in Colombia, brought the recipe here and does the cooking. Barroco Grill even has five authentic sauces to mix and match with every bite. The spicy peanut is Juan's mother's recipe, but you'd find the others (chimichurri, ranchero, garlic and pineapple) on the streets of Colombia. 12906 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-221-8127, barrocogrill.com

Popcorn for a Cause

Lynn Battey has given us another reason to indulge. While she sells more than 50 flavors of gourmet popcorn at her Hudson shop, Crazy But True, many of her blends come with a dose of good feelings. She donates proceeds to local and international charities. For example, the sweet and salty chocolate covered caramel pretzel blend ($4.25 for a small bag) raises money for World Harvest Ministries in the Philippines, and the Mosaic blend ($3.25 for a small bag), a mix of candied fruit popcorns such as watermelon and raspberry, benefits a local church. "I always say you get a double bang for your buck," says Battey, who also helps people who want to make a blend for their own cause. 72 N. Main St., Suite 6, Hudson, 330-342-0300

Hot Dog Stand Hamburger

Polish or not, Clevelanders enjoy their pierogies as much as a thick burger, and Hot Dog Diner finally satisfies our cravings by putting the two together in one tasty dish. Melted American cheese oozes between a juicy, homemade burger and soft bun. It's all topped by a tender potato-and-cheese-stuffed pierogi, grilled onions and a dollop of sour cream for just $4.49. Originally located on Brookpark Road, Hot Dog Diner moved to a vacant Taco Bell on Pearl Road nearly two years ago. And though it might resemble a drive-thru, the only aspect of fast food here is quick service. Owners Natalie and David Teare get their fresh ground beef from a local independent butcher, and their pierogies are made by parishioners at a nearby church. "Parma is known for their pierogies, so we came up with that to tie into our location," Natalie says. "Our toppings are just as diverse as Cleveland is." 5494 Pearl Road, Parma, 440-886-3647, hotdogdiner.com


Beer Soup

With the consistency of a chowder that's nearly a fondue flecked with bacon shards and wisps of onion, garlic and sweet peppers, the Willoughby Brewing Co.'s potato cheddar ale soup makes a temporary detour from your diet totally worthwhile. Potatoes and cheddar belong together, but they do something magical when combined with the brewery's Rusty Rail Pale Ale. The hoppy brew adds a bold, complex flavor without overwhelming the sharp cheese. "It's a full-bodied beer that melds perfectly with the heartiness of the soup," says Mark Jacobs, executive chef, adding that it's an original recipe that's been on the menu since the restaurant opened 13 years ago. "People love it." No kidding. It's so popular people eat it throughout the year, despite hot temperatures outside: The restaurant sold 98 cups or bowls of it during one week in August. 4057 Erie St., Willoughby, 440-975-0202, willoughbybrewing.com

Ramen

Like most other college students, Jonathon Sawyer spent his years at the University of Dayton on a tight budget. "I ate my fair share of ramen," says the chef behind Noodlecat. Today he's putting a twist on the dorm room staple with his pork miso ramen ($11 lunch, $13 dinner). Made with locally raised pork, miso, scallions and greens, this is one dish we could have used while cramming for finals. With a variety of add-ons such as avocado, soy braised eggs and nori (edible seaweed), you can dress up the Japanese-style meal however you want. Sawyer likes to make his haru baru style. "That's double meat, a soft poached egg and nori," he says. The noodle house encourages customers to try eating theirs using chopsticks and a spoon. "Don't be embarrassed about slurping," Sawyer says. Each table even has a funny yet instructional cartoon on how to do it. "In Japan, it's about how loud you can slurp." 234 Euclid Ave., Cleveland, 216-589-0007, noodlecat.com

$2 Lunch

It's tough to find even a good cup of coffee for $2 these days. That's why you need to know about what's going on downtown at Aladdin's Baking Co. No, it's not that Aladdin's, which brought Middle Eastern food to the suburbs. We're talking about the people who make the pita bread you buy at the grocery store. They have a storefront on Carnegie Avenue near Progressive Field where you can pop in to pick up bags of bread and other Middle Eastern market items. But they also serve lunches with arguably the highest dollar-to-deliciousness ratio in the city. A warm, spinach pita pie as big as your fist costs $1.99. Other options such as meat, cheese and broccoli-feta are only a quarter more, and the 8-ounce fattoush and lentil salads are $2.49. Hey Wendy's, this is what a value menu looks like. 1301 Carnegie Ave., Cleveland, 216-861-0317, aladdinbaking.com

Vegan Wedding Cakes

Choosing a wedding cake can be exciting — or a nightmare, if you have special dietary needs. Vegan Sweet Tooth kicks food allergies and celiac disease right in the taste buds with delicious vegan-friendly and gluten-free wedding cakes. Flavors are anything but limited. There's traditional vanilla with chocolate frosting to gluten-free almond with amaretto icing. Even notoriously lactose-loaded frostings such as cream cheese and Bailey's Irish Cream are dairy-free. Head baker Rebecca Bryan uses ingredients such as tofu-based cream cheese and Jameson-laced coconut milk to make a vegan frosting that's still deliciously creamy. "Nothing leaves the kitchen if it doesn't taste right," says co-owner Tiffany O'Neill. The bakery works closely with brides and grooms to complete their design vision whether it's traditionally elegant or fun-themed (chessboard cake, anyone?). 28699 Chagrin Blvd., Woodmere, 216-464-2404, vegansweettooth.com

Mobile Cupcakes

After spending last winter in Tower Deli's kitchen baking 2,000 practice cupcakes and in a garage fixing up a 30-year-old van, art teacher and amateur chef Dave Southerington was ready to spread the recent cupcake craze to the people with Sweet! The Mobile Cupcakery. He started hitting West Side businesses and parks on Memorial Day in Babe, the Big Blue Box, a 16-foot-by-6-foot blue van with a giant pink and orange cupcake on it. His flavors are fun takes on popular desserts such as key lime pie, white wedding cake and chocolate malt. But because the cupcakes have to move (buttercream melts at 94 degrees Farhenheit), Southerington usually keeps it simple. Among his most creative are the chocolate tiramisu he created for a catered event and French toast, topped with maple frosting and a slice of bacon. "My creativity gets to come through in the frosting, where there's a little more leeway to play around." 440-465-7333, mobilecupcakery.com


Frozen Yogurt

LemonBerry Frozen Yogurt invites you to embrace all your mad-scientist tendencies. This locally owned pay-by-weight yogurt shop is like a laboratory for those with a sweet tooth and an imagination. First, there are Lemonberry's frozen yogurt flavors that change every Sunday, such as the popular red velvet and cake batter (the flavor tart, which is tangy and tastes like natural yogurt, is always on the menu). Then, it's on to the toppings, cylinders filled with Fruity Pebbles, Golden Grahams, M&Ms, Reese's Pieces and dozens of other options. Then, you'll probably want to douse your creation in hot fudge or peanut butter or caramel sauce before heading to the buffet of fresh blackberries, strawberries and other fruits. Of course, sugar makes one last encore with crushed candies and goodies such as gummy worms and brownie bites. "It makes adults feel like kids," says Kari Bechke-Algaier, who owns the store with her parents, Joy and John Bechke. "And the kids love choosing their toppings." 12927 Pearl Road, Strongsville, 440-238-0793, lemonberryfrozenyogurt.com


Short Ribs

We're giving Michael Symon an assist for this dish. The celebrity chef arranged a trip for friend Tom Quick to observe the New York City kitchens of famed chef Daniel Boulud. Quick, the chef and owner of Match Works Tavern, was inspired by what he saw and started incorporating the techniques into his menu. One example is Match Works Tavern's No. 1 seller, the short ribs with truffle mashers, spinach and bordelaise sauce ($18). The three-day process starts with a dry marinade of rosemary, thyme, shallots, salt and pepper before several hours of braising "Generally, everyone around here does short ribs boneless," he says. "We do ours bone-in for hours then pull the bone out." He also uses 10 pounds of weights to press the short ribs after they are cooked. "It eats more like steak than a pot roast," he says. 8500 Station St., Mentor, 440-255-0400, matchworkstavern.com

Columbus Import

We've been envious of our state capital for having Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams at its disposal. Several of the handmade artisan ice cream shops are just a lick, hop and a jump for most Columbusites. Clevelanders on the other had to either nab a pint at Heinen's or get a scoop at The Greenhouse Tavern. The ice cream gods (or founder Jeni Britton Bauer) must have finally heard our prayers when a Chagrin Falls location opened in June. People quickly lined up, even in the pouring rain, to devour popular flavors such as salty caramel and wildberry and lavender. We're especially excited for the fall collection's beet cake with black walnuts and Parmesan and zucchini bread, which evoke a late-harvest vibe. "Have a taste," says Britton Bauer. "It becomes a different experience than eating chocolate chip ice cream." 67 Main St., Chagrin Falls, 440-247-2064, jenisicecreams.com


99-Cent Steak

You should meet a steak that is less than a buck with a raised eyebrow. But at the Pearl Road Tavern & Eatery, the 8-ounce sirloin stampedes hunger and skepticism thoroughly. About as thick as this magazine, the lightly seasoned steak is still tender and juicy. "Just because it's titled a dollar steak doesn't mean you get a dollar steak," says owner George McPherson, who started the buck trend when he bought the place seven years ago to counteract sluggish Monday business. This little neighborhood bar in Old Brooklyn has only eight booths and seats about 30 at the bar, but it serves 300 steaks every Monday from 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. McPherson loses money on every steak but turns a profit through drinks and sides. You must order one of each for every two steaks. With a bottle of beer and big basket of fries, you're still paying less than $8. 4370 Pearl Road, Cleveland, 216-398-7664, pearlroadtavern.com

Late-night Pizza

Make Edison's Pizza Kitchen the finish line in your night of Tremont barhopping. The corner takeout joint next to Edison's Pub does sell its pies by the piece ($2.75 for plain or pepperoni), but be sure to check out the specialty menu, with 12- and 16-inch sizes ranging from $11.95 to $17.95. Owner Karl Nickel says the barbecue chicken pizza, Buffalo chicken pizza and chicken bacon ranch are among his best-sellers. Although the two businesses are separately owned, a window inside the pub let's you order a pizza and enjoy it there. And here's what's up with those packs of honey inside each box: "People will eat their pizza and throw the crust out," Nickel says. "So we thought, We'll put honey in there, and they can dip the crusts and make a dessert out of it." 2365 Professor Ave., Cleveland, 216-298-4484, edisonspub.com

Goat Milk Fudge

The rest of the world already knows the secret, but we're just starting to appreciate the joys of goat's milk in this classic confectionery. "It is smoother and creamier than traditional fudge," says Debby Durkee, the owner of Ornery Goat Dairy of Ravenna. "It is very rich tasting." It took her about a year of trial and error to get the consistency and texture that she wanted. Durkee paddles the mix by hand and pours it on a slab to cool. Although you can find her at farmers markets at Kamm's Corners, Kent, Crocker Park and Canton selling her goat cheese throughout the year, you will need to special order her fudge. The nine flavors include popular chocolate-hazelnut, maple and vanilla and come in about 1 1/2-pound loaves for $18.50. "The orders pick up during the holidays," she says. "We can ship anywhere in about three days." 4455 Porter Road, Ravenna, 330-474-1565, ornerygoat.com

Subs

What About Bob's Ultimate Subs lets you fill your belly without starving your wallet. The Willoughby sandwich shop has 10 overstuffed 6-inch subs for $2.99, foot-long subs for $4.99 and monster two-footers for $8.99. Owner Bob Fox focuses on fresh and local when assembling the ingredients for his creations. Doughy French baguettes are baked fresh daily. It's crusty, sink-your-teeth-into-it bread that can handle mountainous folds of thinly sliced meats. Fox then piles on the locally grown tomatoes, onions, lettuce, peppers and other in-season vegetables as well as cheese and his own homemade signature sauces. If you're a first-timer, order the popular No. 5, which is packed with hot capicola, smoked ham, Genoa salami, hot peppers, garlic, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, provolone cheese, and a secret-recipe oil and vinegar dressing. "We wanted to make the ultimate sub," Fox says. "And to judge from how many we sell, we did." 38233 Glenn Ave., Willoughby, 440-951-9700, whataboutbobs.com

Cake on a Stick

Forget the forks. You can eat this super-moist cake treat on the go. Created off the growing trend of cake balls (baked cake mixed with frosting then dipped in chocolate) OH, Cake Pops! puts its version on a stick for easy transportation and no-mess eating. Cheryl Ann Meredith and Matt Adkins started the online-only store in March with more than 25 tasty flavors such as Buckeye Blitz (chocolate fudge cake with a milk chocolate shell dipped in peanut butter) and Milk & Cookies (yellow cake with a white chocolate shell topped with cookie crumbles). "I'm an artist first before being a baker," says Meredith of the creative look of each pop. "They are so versatile. I have endless decorating options." 216-502-7601, ohcakepops.com


Power Breakfast

Go ahead and cancel lunch. Breakfast at Pura Vida, chef Brandt Evans' new spot near Public Square, offers protein-packed triumphs that'll make your morning bagel look positively puny. Sure, the place has tasty light and classic dishes for business travelers (egg white omelet, french toast). But don't miss Pura Vida's heartier fare, which Evans says he created for people like himself who put in long hours at their job. "This is going to be their one meal before they go to work for the rest of the day," he says. There isn't a diner skillet around that tops Pura Vida's Kobe Tri Tip Cast-iron Hash ($12.95), and we're still thinking about the overflowing crock of Country Ham & Kale ($8.75). "It's our rendition of a bread pudding when you dive into it," Evans says. "Then you have some really good country ham, and we just layer it up. That dish definitely screams for a snowstorm." 170 Euclid Ave., Cleveland, 216-987-0100, puravidabybrandt.com


Cheesesteaks

Jason Noyes is claiming the Philly cheesesteak for Cleveland. "We're a beef kind of town," says the chef and owner of Big Daddy's Cheesesteaks, who puts a twist on the iconic sandwich by pouring his house-made American cheese sauce on top of the bread instead of the meat. All four cheesesteak varieties on his menu, which are made to order using Angus sirloin, feature the cheese sauce (except on the Lone Star, which uses cheddar), portobello mushrooms, caramelized onions and bell peppers. Try the Cleveland cheesesteak ($7.25), which is served with a side of Cuyahoga brown gravy made from sirloin drippings. "I love watching people's reaction when they take a bite of that sandwich," he says. "Most people roll their eyes in delight and say, 'Mmmm.' " 16804 Lorain Ave., Cleveland, 216-251-1000

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best of cleveland

12:00 AM EST

September 20, 2011

Story:

Carly Toyzan
Jim Vickers
Erick Trickey
Kim Schneider
Kelly Petryszyn
John Hitch
Jennifer Bowen Sima
Chris Sweeney
Sarah Filus
Gina Kuzmick
Lisa Robertson
Hallie Rybka
Lori Weber

Editor:

Kim Schneider