Mike Sokolowski’s grandparents purchased a small candy store in 1923 after immigrating to Cleveland from Poland. The way Sokolowski tells it, his grandmother and grandfather arrived during the height of Prohibition and sold sandwiches on a small scale until they turned it into a full-fledged tavern in the ’30s. But it wasn’t until construction began on the Innerbelt Bridge in the ’50s that they started shifting their focus to feed a heartier clientele of steelworkers.
As demand increased for an assortment of Eastern European foods, such as stuffed cabbage, pierogies and more, Sokolowski’s mother, Marion, suggested taking a cafeteria-style approach to account for a smaller, committed staff. “You’re able to serve a lot of people with a smaller staff and people can see what they want,” says Sokolowski, who now owns the restaurant with his brother and sister.
“If you serve good quality food, people don’t have a problem with it. That’s where we are today.” The same dedication that leads staff to hand-roll 500 stuffed cabbage rolls each day has paid off in national attention. Last November, Food and Wine named Sokolowski’s University Inn the second best cafeteria in the country. “[Stuffed cabbage] is the kind of thing that’s a team effort,” says Sokolowski. “They’re as big as a hand grenade.” Sokolowski shares the family’s recipe for the Eastern European delicacy.
Stuffed Cabbage
For cabbage:
2 large onions, diced
2 large cabbage heads, cored
4 tablespoons butter
6 large eggs
1 pound ground pork
1 pound ground veal
2 1/2 pounds 85/15 blend ground beef
3 cups cooked basmati rice
2 ounces sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons black pepper
2 teaspoons salt
4 teaspoons granulated garlic
3 tablespoons beef base
1 pound thick-sliced bacon
For sauce:
2 15-ounce cans diced tomatoes
2 large jars pasta sauce
2 small cans tomato soup
1 tablespoon salt
2 ounces granulated garlic
When You Go: Sokolowski’s University Inn, 1201 University Road, Cleveland, 216-771-9236, sokolowskis.com
Read More: Click here to read the full list of 18 Classic Cleveland Restaurants.