Turkish Delights

At first glance, Dervish doesn't look like a classic Turkish restaurant. There's no overwhelming decoration with ethnic tchotchkes — the decor is simple and clean in an inviting way. Turn to the menu, however, and it reads like a standard Middle Eastern spot: grape leaves and tabbouleh, kabobs and falafel. But don't be deceived. What comes out of the kitchen at this strip mall restaurant is anything but ho-hum. There's no same-old boring pita, but instead homemade fluffy Turkish pide. It will inspire you to order something dippable. We prefer the creamy hummus ($4.50), which isn't overly garlicky or oily, or the ezme ($5), a fun tapenade-meets-bruschetta mix of cool cucumber, tomato, spicy peppers and seasonings. Order alone or pair with four other cold apps in a combination platter ($11-$17). Lamacun ($10.95), a Turkish-style pizza with ground lamb and veggies is not seen on many menus and is worth the deviation from the norm. But for those who can't break tradition, there's no going wrong with a kebab, from adana to tender doner. Try the combination kebab ($14.95), juicy chicken and lamb with rice pilaf and grilled peppers and tomatoes. It will keep you coming back to mix and match meat options.