Eric Williams mod Mex joint in Ohio City is as vital today as it was revolutionary more than a decade ago.
When chef Eric Williams’ Ohio City Mexican restaurant opened in 2006, it was radical.
Many balked at a $15, $20 or $25 price tag on tacos — even ones piled sky high with fistfuls of hard work, such as the slow-braised citrus adobo pork ($17), or fine-dining technique, like the trout ($24) with pecan-crusted pickled jalapenos and pepita.
Guacamole was still a foreign green gunk to many — even before Williams spiked it with smoked trout and pork belly ($9.50) or black pepper pecorino, roasted garlic and agave nectar ($9.50).
Trios of margaritas ($15) introduced moms not only to blood orange or pomegranate margaritas ($10) but clasico lime ($9) with fresh-squeezed lime juice instead of a syrupy mix.
With a mod Mex philosophy, Williams never set out to create a traditional, authentic experience, but his reverence for Mexican culture pushed forward Cleveland’s understanding of the cuisine.
Fifteen years later, Momocho doesn’t seem quite as revolutionary as it once was, but it remains as vital to our dining scene as ever.momocho.com
