Since a Nebraskan plumber invented Hidden Valley Ranch in 1949, the creamy, herby dressing has become a Midwestern staple. We put it on everything, including pizza.
Scoffing New Yorkers say we’re just trying to mask subpar pie. But between the elite coasts, Dallas Neapolitan pizza restaurant Cane Rosso taunts customers with a $1,000 charge for ordering the white stuff.
And it’s not only a Midwest phenomenon. Newspapers in Texas and California show some of the earliest references to the pairing. In 1994, Domino’s Pizza began promoting it nationwide as an accompaniment to its pizza and wings.
Arthur Bovino, who writes about and researches all things pizza, says he’s often accused of “having an open mind” for a New Yorker. The co-host of the Pizza Pod Party podcast says ranch is, at its best, working in contrast by adding a creamy, “herby zip” to a spicy red sauce or pepperoni.
“It’s not my default,” he says. “But you know, the poor craftsmanship and inferior ingredients of dollar slices are a bigger crime against pizza in my worldview.
“It’s better than leaving pizza bones,” he adds.
“Cheffed-up” versions are essential. Ohio City’s cool kid Cent’s Pizza & Goods makes it in-house, and Cleveland Pizza Co. in Mentor, Bainbridge and Willowick bottles and sells it.
Megann Galehouse, set styling by Magan McLaughlin, food styling by Betty Karslake
Ben Bebenroth, owner of Boom’s Pizza in Lakewood and Van Aken, blames our desire to dip on our “bombed out palates.” The chef has even created a lighter alternative with his take on toum. The Lebanese condiment of whipped garlic and ice water, lemon juice, salt and sunflower oil gets freaked with chili crisps or pesto and herbs.
“I just don’t think pizza needs more saturated fat,” says Bebenroth, relenting that he understands our desire for a sweet and sour tang with a savory slice’s bitter, umami flavor.
So, each week, he proudly stirs up a house-made recipe of fresh herbs and creamy goodness — despite his anti-dipping stance.
“If you like it,” he says, “who am I to judge?”
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